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Need a replacement speaker - Paradigm

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Complete Newby here...
Some critter chewed up my Paradigm PV60R in wall speaker and I need a replacement. Any recommendations given that this model is discontinued. Also, can I replace only one, or does the other need replacement too (to ensure sound continuity). It is the Right Front Speaker in a 7.2 system.


Thanks
Sean

fender champ 600 reissue

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A friend of mine dropped of this amp for repair.
On first inspection I see R10 cathode resistor is burnt and is open circuit.
Is there any reason this can happen.
I have metered the tube and it shows no shorts .
The power transformer meters ok and so does output
On my diy 5e1 I was recommended by Dlab to use a ik

Attached Files
File Type: pdf Fender-Champion-600-Schematic.pdf (164.9 KB)

Marantz 1030 bad left channel

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Hi all! My Marantz 1030 is misbehaving, and has a constant loud noise on the left channel. It´s there with volume at 0, I´ve attached a little video to demonstrate.
YouTube


Here´s a schematic, if that helps anything: Schematic Diagram - Marantz 1030 Service Manual [Page 16]


I´m new to amp repair, I´ve made guitar effects pedals, so I (semi) know how to read a simple schematic and solder, but I don´t really know where to start here, so any help or resources would be greatly appreciated!

Console conversion

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Hey group, first time post and relative newbie. Looking to do first large build modernizing a antique console that has been gutted.

Looking For totally open ended build ideas. The only real plan I have in place currently is use of an Arylic WiFi/BT module as source.

So I’d like the consul to be mono, loud and clean, simple DSP would be nice. As far as inputs and outputs I need to have a separate headphone amp and outs. RCA inns and outs, optical in and coax out.

I don’t know much about tube amps other than I’ve heard a couple lately, one of them an a early 50s Motorola three channel console and it was incredible. If possible to go the tube route it would be preferred. I’m attaching a picture of the consul as it stands currently (sexy shot yeah? I’m a photographer so this is the “before”)

Please ask questions if I haven’t given enough information or just feel free to think out loud with what you might do to it, thanks so much guys! Attachment 844922

Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_2308.jpg (102.9 KB)

v.divider+v.follower or v.regulator

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hello. i have a question about pairing voltage with application.
i have a source of 12V and i need to work with a fuzz face pedal distorsion with germanium transtistors and the the pedal should get 9v.
what is the best solution for this?
i thought about a voltage regulator or a voltage divider + opamp as voltage follower.
the best solution would be the voltage divider but i'm considering a walkaround. any pro/cons?cheers

Attached Images
File Type: jpg Germanium-Fuzz-Face-Schematic.jpg (263.7 KB)

6E6P-E spud amp - how it can sound?

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Hello guys, I have a 93dB open baffle speakers and momentally a 4P1L PSE amplifier with something like 3.5 watts of output power.
I consider making a little spud amplifier wth the 6E6P-E tube, because I have two 5k 25mA output transformers lying around. What do you think?
I think something like a 1.5w is possible to squeeze out of this tube in triode.
I have read your other guys posts, but how it actually sounds? Can someone describe it in detail?
Thank you very much. Best regards, Michal

Power transformer very hot

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Hammond 374BX with KT88.
The transformer is almost too hot to touch. Is there a starting point on what check to find out why?
Thanks

Single rail 36V about 200W power supply for TPA or TAS3251 amp

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Hello,


I have designed a class D amplifier board based on a TAS3251 chip (TPA3251 + DAC+ DSP in the same chip).


I now need to buy the power supply. My initial intention is to go to a Meanwell LRS-350-36 (MEAN WELL LRS-350-36 Switching Power Supply SMPS 36V 9.7A 350W - Audiophonics). I have read several good recommendations for those.


However, I'm a bit bothered by the fact that those power supplies are not optimized for Audio. They can deliver a steady 350W, while I will normally have much lower needs, but need a to be able to cope with short peaks. TI has some suitable reference designs with 200W nominal and 600W peak (from memory).


I understand that DIY is not easy in that area because of specific transformers and coils (and voltage). Drmord proposed an interesting desgin, but from the Google translate of the article (Russian), making the transformer looks like art :-(



CONNEX modules are more significantly more expensive that Meanwell. Hypex even much more.


At the bottopm end of the cost spectrum, some cheap modules like Nouveau Module d'alimentation 36V 5A AC DC Module d'alimentation a decoupage carte ca 100V 240V a DC 36V alimentation a decoupage|Alimentation a decoupage| - AliExpress


What are they worth ?


Other interesting products to consider ?


And to increase my knowledge: what should I look at for those type of power supplies. What are the interesting features / performances ? What to stay away from ?


Help welcomed,


JMF

FS: NEW Sachiko full range backloaded horn custom-made cabinet

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Selling a project speaker that I intended to use as a center channel in a home theater setup. Custom made Sachiko design professionally fabricated from 3/4" high density baltic birch ply. Wired with a quality Cardas speaker binding post. Faceplate machined to accept Fostex FE-126En driver.

Specs:
71x18x7 75lbs

Paid $650. Asking $350

I can also bundle a pair of Frugel-Horn Mk3s with drivers and spikes for an additional $300 to create a nicely matched front end. These speakers were professionally CNC machined based on the internet plans. Drivers have been modified to improve performance and the interior is damped with the recommended wool and fiber treatment. They sound great.

Due to weight I prefer local pickup in DFW but willing to meet within a hundred mile radius to connect with buyers in Austin or Houston etc

Attached Images
File Type: jpg speaker1.jpg (188.0 KB)
File Type: jpg IMG_2873.jpg (341.3 KB)
File Type: jpg terminals.jpg (826.8 KB)
File Type: jpg fhMK3.jpg (369.6 KB)
File Type: jpg IMG_2878.jpg (713.6 KB)
File Type: jpg IMG_2879.jpg (391.6 KB)

Old 80's Panasonic Boombox

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I picked this up a few days ago: PanasonicBoombox.jpg - Google Drive

It's a Panasonic RX 5085. Sounds surprisingly decent, maybe a little light on bass, but I don't mind. Contrary to my username, I don't know anything about these boxes. :) I did have a few questions though, so enlighten me.

1. How does the "ambiance" mode on this thing actually work? There's mono, stereo, and ambiance. Flipping it to that mode seems to artificially expand the sound stage and create this fake "surround sound" effect. I don't really like it because it makes the music sound weird, but I am curious, how does it actually modify the signal to achieve this effect?

2. What type of enclosure do the drivers sit in? From what I could tell, there's no ports, but the design looks too leaky to be a sealed enclosure. Does this mean it's open baffle like most car speakers?

3. I was planning to open and clean everything up inside. Will adding a bit of polyfill or other dampening material inside the enclosure improve sound quality and bass extension? Or will this cause other problems I'm not aware of?

4. Do these boomboxes have the same issue with the worn foam surrounds as bookshelf speakers at the time? Will I have to replace the surrounds soon? Or are they rubber or something like most of the modern stuff?

FS: Frugel-Horn Mk3 w/Fostex FE126En drivers. Pro build

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Selling a pair of Frugel-Horn Mk3 speakers with Fostex FE126En drivers. Professional CNC build with the driver mods to improve performance. Internally damped with the recommended wool sheets and fibre fill. Spikes installed in base.

Asking $395.

Located in DFW and prefer pickup but can ship at buyer's expense.

Also available as a bundled deal with a Sachiko backloaded horn speaker here
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap...ml#post6208853

Attached Images
File Type: jpg fhMK3.jpg (369.6 KB)
File Type: jpg IMG_2878.jpg (713.6 KB)
File Type: jpg IMG_2879.jpg (391.6 KB)

Carvin SX-15 Preamp

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Hi everybody,
I am attempting to build a bass amp head utilizing a Carvin SX-15 Preamp and a DBX 1 Compressor/Limiter 262. I am looking at a 210 watt per channel (420 watt Bridged) power amp board. Typical bridged configurations only use one of the input channels. I want to retain use of both channels while in mono but I am concerned about combining right and left outputs from the SX-15 using a common ground. Will this damage the preamp? I would also like to maintain the versatility of switching between stereo and mono. Anybody have any input?

OTL Headphone Amp Topology Question.

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Several years ago, before I started meddling with vacuum tubes, I bought a relatively popular Chinese OTL headphone amp, the Little Dot Mk II. It sounded pretty good. In my ham-fisted attempts to "improve" the sound, I swapped out capacitors and such without knowing their function in the circuit. Many lifted pads and bodged wires later, the amp got shelved away.

After seeing the 6AS7 amp that I'd just completed, my kid wants one too, but smaller in size. I remembered the Little Dot, took it off the shelf, cleaned off the layer of dust, and cracked it open. Because the PCB's so jacked-up, I thought I'd build a point-to-point clone using the power transformer. I traced out the circuit:

Click the image to open in full size.

The front end is easy, a triode strapped pentode. The output section appears to be a White cathode follower. In Merlin's book, he has a voltage divider providing the bias for the upper triode. Here, it looks like the bias is achieved by the 120R resistor between the 2 sections. Are there any improvements that can be made in terms of safety of operation and sound quality?

Thank you.

TL494 mini dc converter

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เป็นวงจรง่ายฯ ใช้tl494ขับmosfet โดยตรง โดยใช้R DEVIDER ควบคุมไม่ให้ G-Sมีโวลท์มากเกินไป จะทำให้กินกระแสstanby แต่ถ้าvole G-Sน้อยไป เวลามีโหลดก็จะจ่ายกระแสไม่พอ ทำให้ไฟออกตกมาก วงจรที่ทดลองG-Sประมาณ3.3v ทำงานได้ดี

Attached Images
File Type: png 494mini3.png (187.1 KB)
File Type: jpg 87550.jpg (156.4 KB)
File Type: jpg 87551.jpg (187.7 KB)
File Type: jpg IMG_20200515_055743.jpg (731.7 KB)
File Type: jpg IMG_20200515_040702.jpg (614.5 KB)
File Type: jpg IMG_20200515_041721.jpg (594.8 KB)
File Type: jpg IMG_20200514_165412.jpg (549.4 KB)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf MINI DC-DC TL494.pdf (1.31 MB)

Cheap Chinese 24 position attenuator

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OK, I didn't have $250 for a gold point stereo 24 position 100K attenuator. So, I bought a couple of cheap Chinese ones off of ebay, see attached photos. I know, I know, let the moans and groans begin. Anyway, I spent about an hour with my DMM and for the life of me can't find the terminal that correspond to in, out and ground. Anyone have experience with these? Thanks in advance for you help.


In
|
>
>
><---- Out
>
|
Ground

Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_3259[1].jpg (436.9 KB)
File Type: jpg IMG_3260[1].JPG (927.8 KB)
File Type: jpg IMG_3258[1].jpg (523.1 KB)

Denon x3300w amplifier going to protection mode

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Hi
My denon AVR-X3300W amplifier is going to protection mode.I checked all the power darlington pair transistor and no short circuit.

checked all the components in the main, amp boards like diodes, resistors etc
all are fine.

Then i found the IC regulator 7808 and 7805 are getting too much hot, this is used to supply 5vdc to the pre amp board. so i remove the pre amp board and then the amplifier stays ON an no more heat up in the IC regulators.



checked and replaced the diodes in the Pre amp board, still no success.

Please advise.

Roberts radio to guitar amp

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Hello all.
Has anyone know of a schematic that uses DAF 91,DL94,DK92,Df91 or some of them for a guitar amp.
I have a Roberts CR portable mains powered radio that I would like to convert

Thamks

3 1/2 Way with Sub...My Upgrades

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I have MANY drivers and amplifiers. Time to upgrade and re-arrange. On the low end; I have the SB23MFCL45-4 single in a closed box just under 1 ft^3 powered by an older Hypex DS 2.0. I will eventually add a second one but will have to wire them in series for 8 Ohms. The Hypex does great with 4 Ohms but no way could it do 2 Ohms. This won't increase my overall sensitivity I realize but I will still have twice the surface area and I'm guessing I would increase the SPL's because the Amp will have an easier load. I never have to turn the main "gain" control up past the half-way point. With all bass EQ settings, in room response goes all the way down to 14 Hz! Remarkable for a single 9 inch sub. in a small, closed box! The Hypex has a non-defeatable 12 Hz high-pass (I think 4th order?). Moving on up from there...

ELEKIT PS 3250 MC/MM phono stage

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ELEKIT PS-3250 Phono stage MM/MC $75.00
I accept pre-orders with Tatakachi YM -150 case + the DC input socket +PS-3250 all for $99 (There is no postal service in Japan. I will use FedEx to ship out of Japan)



. Cartridge / MM type (about 47 kΩ), MC type (about 100 Ω or 30 Ω)
. Circuit configuration / CR type equalizer (RIAA), two-stage op-amp
amplification
・ RIAA deviation / within ± 0.5 dB (20 to 20 kHz)
・ Gain (@ 1kHz)
27dB (MM, LOW-G), 32dB (MM, MID-G), 36dB (MM, HIGH-G)
56dB (MC, LOW-G), 62dB (MC, MID-G), 65dB (MC, HIGH-G)
・ Non-clip maximum output (@ 1kHz) / 9V r.m.s.
・ Power supply voltage / DC 5-12V
・ Current consumption / 100mA (at 5V), 30mA (at 12V) [with NJM2068DD]
・ PCB size / 100 × 80 mm
MADE In JAPAN

Features ]
● In addition to MM type cartridges, it is also compatible with MC type cartridges by replacing jumpers on the PCB board.
The gain can also be set in 3 stages according to the output of the cartridge.
● The op-amp is NJM2068DD (low noise). The op-amp can be replaced, and you can enjoy the fun of op-amp rolling.
● CR type is used for the equalizer circuit, so even if the operational amplifier is replaced with another one, there is no concern that the equalizing characteristics will shift.
● Adopting ± 1% metal film resistors and ± 2% film capacitor, RIAA deviation is small and low noise.
● The power supply section is equipped with a positive / negative voltage generation circuit. High sound quality and wide dynamic range are secured by supplying ± 15V to the op-amplifier.
● Equipped with a POP noise suppression circuit when the power is turned on / off.
● Since the level of noise (especially hum) is greatly affected by the routing of the input / output lines and the ground point of the equalizer amplifier, this kit comes with an input / output jack for mounting on the board, and a grounding bracket.


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.

Prepare PS-3250 first by soldering it. You also require these parts that are not included in the kit: DC jack, aluminum case, M3, and 5 screws about 8mm long. These parts are included if you purchase the $99 package.
For metal processing your will require center punches, reamers, metal files, drill bits for aluminum and drills.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

takachi ym-180 case
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.


DC 12V (solder the DC Jack - does not include in the kit)
The DC jack used has an outer diameter of 5.5 mm and an inner diameter of 2.1 mm.
The inner pin is positive and the outer and outer peripheries are negative.
The AC adapter uses the same standard plug, 5V-12V.
"2.1mm standard jack".
Click the image to open in full size.

USB power source - from phone power or battery pack
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Case Preparation
Click the image to open in full size.

1. Make a copy of the floor plan found on page 4 in the menu
2. Cut out the floor plan and attach it to the back of the case
3. Follow the guides on the floorplan to drill the holes on the case
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

[Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Amp for Stax electrets - 5687 outputs?

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In a fit of boredom and in the knowledge that there are some sources of sockets to plug them into, I have been pondering what it would take to make a DIY OTL amp for my Stax SR30 electrets.

The specs for these are 95dB at 100V input, impedance at 10kHz of 150kohm (although there is obviously a capacitive element) which makes it look like an OTL design based around a valve used for driver stages could work. From what is in the parts bin, it looks like 5687s in push pull could work?

I've atttached a schematic of what the initial back of a packet thoughts are, using 10M45 CCSs as I have had good results previously and it seems to make sense in the context of the output stage requirements. This would presumably lead to an effective loading for the 5687s of 75k each?

The first stage is currently a bit of a throwaway (as I am aware that there are some views on the actual quality of ECC82s...) to show what sort of first stage gain would be required for a reasonable output. In any case, I am not yet sure whether this would go in a system with a balanced preamp or not.

So before anything more goes into the design such as operating point tweaking, are there any points of complete idiocy that I have failed to spot in this context?

Attached Images
File Type: jpg Stax amp balanced fiddling.JPG (84.0 KB)
Attached Files
File Type: asc Stax amp balanced fiddling.asc (5.6 KB)
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