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Diy small active PA speakers with off shelf components

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lets say we take beyma sm115/n/8 midbas,tweeter rcf nd 1411m on eighteensound xt 1086 horn, and put it inside custom reflex cabinet tuned to 35hz and made by local woodworker.

now for amplifier cant decide, some sort of quick all in one solution would be good.

why not buy lets say JBL EON 615 replacement amplifier module and mount it , not sure what xover freq. but it has some sort of dsp so it should be adjustable?

this is for small size PA system and intent is to not need bass bins and to have reasonable output for to max 100 people on open places and what is point of my asking to be cheap, easy and fast to assemble, reasonable db and high quality output.

how feesible this solution of parts looks? any suggestions welcome thank you

which kind of wood for tapped horn?

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Hello! in southern Italy finding a good wood is difficult ..
for my tapped horn I found:
poplar upstream 20mm (450 kg / m³)
phenolic conifer 18mm (480 kg / m³)
the latter seems to me better as hardness, moreover the 2mm in pio of the poplar lead me to redesign the cabinet ..
what do you think?

Oh no, what am I going to do with a 40W OT?

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I have no use for a higher power amp. I have a 68 Bassman sitting around needing a cap job. The 25W Wurlitzer OT's I have are more than these poor old ears can handle now days. And a boat anchor of a power supply. Bits and pieces from a Hammond tone cabinet. The left two hunks of iron on the left are the OT's. Two chokes and the power transformer. A big can of from what I am told is oil filled capacitors.




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BT 4.2 amplifier boards with WTS and Apt-X

Appreciation

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Hi all.I just wanted to express my appreciation for the DIY community here.I have sold and bought,questioned and answered and one common vein I have found is that the members I have dealt with are really solid people.Honest and helpful are 2 things that immediately come to mind.In this world with all the negative goings on it is a blessing to be part of such a stand up community.

spice model C5200 modif.help

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To simulate at class A I need the transistor operating at hot temperature where the beta 80min. is in real about 180 . Can someone modify this pspice model ?
************************************************** *******************
* (C) Copyright 2017 Toshiba Electronic Devices & Storage Corporation
* Date: 19/09/2017
* File Name: 2SC5200.lib
* Part Number: 2SC5200
* Parameter Ver.: Ver.1
* Simulator: PSpice
* Model Call Name: 2SC5200
* TNOM: 25 degree
* Pin Assign: 1=Collector 2=Base 3=Emitter
*
* Operation of this model has been verified only on the OrCAD.
************************************************** *******************
.SUBCKT 2SC5200 1 2 3
Q1 1 2 3 3 2SC5200_BJT
.MODEL 2SC5200_BJT NPN(
+ LEVEL = 1
+ IS = 2.1586e-012
+ BF = 220
+ NF = 1
+ VAF = 100
+ IKF = 50
+ ISE = 2.5e-012
+ NE = 1.27
+ BR = 28
+ NR = 1
+ VAR = 10
+ IKR = 2
+ ISC = 3e-010
+ NC = 1.5
+ NK = 1.12
+ RE = 0.012
+ RB = 0.8
+ RC = 0.01
+ CJE = 8e-010
+ VJE = 0.75
+ MJE = 0.33
+ CJC = 4.8152e-010
+ VJC = 0.75
+ MJC = 0.33
+ FC = 0.5
+ TF = 2.3617e-009
+ XTF = 10
+ VTF = 2
+ ITF = 1
+ PTF = 0
+ TR = 10E-09
+ EG = 1.11
+ XTB = 3
+ XTI = 5.9601
+ TRC1 = 0
+ TNOM = 25)
.ENDS

Simple Question: Is this device in Pentode or Triode mode??

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Hey all, this is my second attempt posting this (lost my first post!).

I bought an FX-Audio Tube-01 Preamp/buffer (it does provide gain) and want to use it with the Yugoslavia 6HM5 tubes like the Little Dot users do. I came across a post from someone saying NOT to use this tube in a different ef95/6ak5 amp unless the amp has the tubes strapped as a triode. So that's what I'm trying to find out: is this device wired for triode or pentode mode? It is a really low power device (12v) so I'm not entirely sure there is enough juice to run it as a pentode?? (I'm brand new to tubes, and learning as I go).


Here are some pictures of the board, and a "schematic" I was told by several users should be pretty darn close (looks like most of the cheap chinese 6j1 preamp/buffers are fairly similar). All I need to know is if it is setup as triode, or pentode mode.


Code:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FX-AUDIO-TUBE-01-DC12V-Preamplifier-Tube-Amplifier-Buffer-6J1-HIFI-stereo-audio/263472607905?
Code:

https://www.circuitlab.com/circuit/9vnehk/fever-6j1-tube-pre-amp-circuit/


If none of that is helpful, I can remove the PCB and take some pictures of the traces on the front/rear of the PCB.

Thank you very much, and my apologies regarding my noobness!

Portable Bluetooth Speaker Build With Passive Radiators Build

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Hello everyone

I've been here a long time but more on the reader side, today a decided to share the new portable speaker I've been working.

First, this probably the 5th portable speaker I've built, so its a culmination of everything I've learned on previous build plus a few bookshelf and sub-woofers.

The drivers will be the same as my previous box, two 4,5" Eastech mid bass and two Peerless DQ25SC16. No wait, 4 of each, since I will build two almost identical boxes, one for me and one for my father.

This is what I wanted:
-Smaller than the previous one (10l max vs 21l)
-Play way lower

This mid bass was something golden that I found on a electronic stores, bought it what parameters whatsoever. After measuring I knew it would perform well

Bellow is an simulation in Hornresp of what I came up. Extension to almost 40 Hz in a 3,5 l enclosure. The way to do that was tunning the passive radiator really low as a mean to keep excursion under control, and them just brute force trough equalization.

Response @ 2pi
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In theory it would work, but I wasn't so sure, so I build a test box to measure and more important, listen. My biggest worry is that the high excursion even at low volumes would distort the rest of the spectrum

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It worked perfectly, I used my Mini DSP to apply the required equalization and took a quick measurement to see what the response looked like, and after that hooked up a tweeter just to listen for a few hours and see if the sound was pleasing.

Near field response of each driver and summed response

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After that what was left to do was finish the box design and design a filter to go with it

For the box I went with the smallest size that could fit the drivers, the final dimensions is 401x148x183mm, all made to be CNC cut

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For the filter I have a PEQ, a 4th order butterworth low pass and a BSC, all adjustable from outside the box by just removing the back portion of the cloth. The PCB should arrive soon

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Today I received all CNC cut wood, my plan is to assemble the box this week and take some measurements to start working on the crossover

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What do you think

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Looking for thoughts on this combination- im strill trying to fix phase issues, but im sure that will change when modeled- Im just "pre" modeling because i dont want to order drivers and have garbage :)

Trying make a 15"Cube with F3 lower than 50HZ and 90s sensitivity

what you guys think? Different tweeter? i tried dayton RT28A got pretty flat just harder---Also its not the CDX1146 i forgot to change the name to Peerless by Tymphany H25TG05-04 1" Titanium Dome

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vintage italian 8"fullrange:please take a look.

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Hi guys.
I'd like to show you a couple of vintage italian ( I presume made by Electronic Melody or CIARE) drivers.
They're 8" paper cones fullranges, they're mounted into a 10 liters wooden cabinets.
My question is: have they high efficiency (I mean at least 93 db) in your opinion?
Here's the link to see the pictures:

MILAN CASSE ACUSTICHE VINTAGE 10 WATT | eBay

Please, guys, let me know your opinion about their efficiency.
Thank you so much!;):)
best regards

Getter Temperature

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Found this image on web a few years ago, wonder which column refers to audio tubes?
I enlarged this picture 1400x866 hope it visible.
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Kappalite, B&C, Ciare, Heil Modular 3-Way build thread

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Here we go. It all started innocent enough. With some panels cut to specific sizes …

[IMG]Click the image to open in full size.20180328_143120 by Cullen Graham, on Flickr[/IMG]

I wanted to design a floor standing pair of speakers, with incredible and effortless dynamics, with very realistic sounding instruments and voices. That "jump" factor, if you will. I wanted a fairly high efficiency, three way design, with the drivers mounted very close together. I wanted bass bins with a bolt in interchangeable port tuning system. I wanted the top cabinets to be extremely dead and resonant free, with the best diffraction possible within the design restraints. I'm looking for very powerful bass to 40 hz. And the highs need to sound like live percussion. These are made to ROCK!

I already have a pair of AMTs I love, in the small Heil monopoles. I did NOT want to be a lemming, lol. I did not want to use the Faital Pro line for mids or lows. I had been really trying to decide between the B&C 6MDM38 mids, and the Ciare NDK-6 1.5 mids. Then I realized they will countersink almost perfectly in the exact same routed hole for the front baffle! I get to have a DSP setting for both midrange drivers. I can switch them out if I want to! Modular design goals.
Wait, DSP ? Yes. These will be fully active, with onboard amplifiers. These should be DYNAMIC! More tomorrow.

[IMG]Click the image to open in full size.20180401_133855 by Cullen Graham, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]Click the image to open in full size.20180403_125043 by Cullen Graham, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]Click the image to open in full size.20180526_201518(0) by Cullen Graham, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]Click the image to open in full size.20180526_201532 by Cullen Graham, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]Click the image to open in full size.20180609_120116 by Cullen Graham, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]Click the image to open in full size.20180610_115715 by Cullen Graham, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]Click the image to open in full size.20180610_115728(0) by Cullen Graham, on Flickr[/IMG]

SPDI/F inputs for raspberry

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Hi folks,

I'm really happy with my raspberry based music player.
It use Volumio as a player and playlist management (Android app is great) and I’ve configured a brutefir convolution to do some digital XO, speaker equalization and room correction.

Every thing works fine with my SMSL AD18 and my DIY bookshelf.
I'm listening mainly flac files and internet radios. 24/96 most part of the time.

That said, I'm looking for a solution to process optical inputs as my TV and my Chromecast audio. (The idea is to use brutefir on them)
So, I've purchased an hifiberry digi+ I/O and connected my Chromecast.

And then, the hard part had begun. I've tried sox, alsaloop, arecord|aplay and many Brutefir configurations (pipes, files, devices …) with more or less success.
Most of the time I'm facing sample rates problems and finally haven’t found any workable solution which start at boot, doesn’t hang up and work anytime.

Do you guys have already do that with success? Implementing a robust solution?

How can you connect new BT 4.2 WTS audio receiver module with TPA3118 mono noiseless

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I want to connect this new BT 4.2 TWS audio receiver module:

Bluetooth Audio Receiver Board(TWS/Apt-X)

with the Sanwu TPA3118 mono amplifier module:

http://sorbits.dk/classd/IMG_20160806_173342.jpg

I would like the BT module to draw power from the same 15-19v powersupply as the amplifier module (possible using a simple 5v voltage regulator)

However it is my experience that annoying noise will travel between the amplifier and the BT module via the power line or audio line or common ground.

How can I avoid/limit this ?

Ribbon Tweeters

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I'm looking to replace my Monacor ribbon tweeters which are okay but just , I'm looking at Founteks and am open to suggestions . It's in a three way, woofers are Vistaton ws200s, Morel dome midrange, Philips/ Monacor Ribbon . Sealed enclosure crossovers 850hz, 4500hz 2nd order . The pic is a bit lousy but you get the idea. Attachment 691278

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nakamichi cr-4 playback input stage CCS

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For me this input stage of an old tape machine is one of the biggest mistery .Is there any particular reason for why Nakamichi engineers chose a self biased ccs here or is the carefull dc vs ac gain that really matters here? I don't think i've seen this type of ccs in more than two ore maybe three comercial machines, while i don't really remember the other two.Could somebody make a in debth technical assesement of this stage? The sound of that thing is magical and i think that this input stage has its merits allthough i met other tape machines that sound really well using op-amps or differential fet input and op-amps but identical dolby section...

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SPL trace question

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I am trying to generate an FRD using spl trace. looking at the image the trace is cut off at the lower of the scale. What would be the best approach to achieve a workable trace?

Attachment 691293

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Bookshelf Recommendations?

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Hello,

I am new to this forum and looking for some DIY Bookshelf Speakers. I have been having difficulty on the internet looking for comparison, reviews, etc.

First off, what would be proper set up to connect to my PC and PS4? I am guessing an audio receiver. What you recommend?

Secondly, every article I read crowns the SVS Ultra as the best bookshelf set. Let me know your thoughts. How does the SVS Ultra compare against the Quartto or Plutones?

Need an Electronics Technician in the Virginia State or surrounding.

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Needing a Electronic technician to repair a car amp in the Virginia State area or the surroundings any one have any suggestions?

First attempt at making homemade surrounds

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I'm new to speaker building, and as an experiment wanted to make my own foam surrounds for an old pair of 4" drivers from a Koss M85-Plus (exact commercial replacement surrounds not found). I was not concerned with exactness; these were cheap and I wanted to see how different homemades would be from the originals.

My local craft stores only carry 2mm foam which I feared might be too thick/heavy, but I found 1mm EVA foam online. (1mm EVA CRAFT FOAM SHEETS 12"X18" 15 pcs, choose or write in your choice. 762668731008 | eBay)

I happened to already have a router and a 1/2" diameter core box bit (which are cheap). I also happened to have several sizes of clear tubing/hose (available at most home stores) and found a 3/8" size to be a good match.

I used the router with core box bit to cut appropriate size circles in two pieces of board the same diameter as the original surround roll, 80mm peak-to-peak. I used a homemade router circle cutter.

I then lay the foam sheet on top of one of the cut boards, place the tube ontop of that, then place the other board ontop of that, creating a sandwich that presses the tube into the foam and forces it down into the channel I cut. You can see I simply cut the tube the correct length to fit the circumference then taped the ends together- nothing very exact.I screw the boards together with a common wood screw, directly in the center in order to hold the sandwich together tight.

I then take the sandwiched boards and place it into an oven; I used my little toaster oven which has a "warm" setting. Don't know what temperature that is, but probably around 150degrees F. Leave it in for one hour, then turn the oven off and let it sit for a few hours so the sandwich (with the pressed foam inside) will cool slowly. After it cools I unscrew the sandwich and voila, the foam surround roll has been shaped!

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After that it is just a matter of cutting the surround to the proper size (a delicate job). In my case, the foam surround is glued from under the cone. I made a mess with the glue, but it doesn't seem to matter (except cosmetically). I did have one spot of trouble with gluing the new surrounds- I used the DATS to run a buzz test and one of the drivers needed help. I found that I could actually stretch the surround with my fingers until the buzz test passed. Of course I also needed to re-glue the driver gaskets back on. For glue I used Elmers Craft Bond Tacky Glue, $2 at Hobby Lobby- there's probably better glues to use (Aleene's).

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I had two of these speakers, which are in an MTM arrangement. I made surrounds for the two drivers in one of the speakers, and left the originals in the other alone in order to compare them. I have a DATS V2 to get parameters, and I use REW to get the FR. I was interested to see how the new foam would change both the paremeters and the sound.

Here are the main parameters:
Original .......Repaired with new homemade foam surrounds
Fs 44Hz ........Fs 128
Qts .5 ...........Qts 1.17
Qes .65 .........Qes 1.74
Qms 2.4 ........Qms 3.6
Vas 0.18 cu ft Vas 0.04 cu ft

So, that seems pretty different, but again I am new to this. I didn't know how the difference in the mass of the new foam would change things.

See the attached plots from REW. Again, since I'm new at this I may have setup the plots wrong, but I did them both exactly the same way so I believe that they are valid as a comparison (not for absolute values).

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At some point I will be working on designing new and better xovers for these.

The repaired drivers don't really sound any different to my ears than the originals. The plot shows they should produce a bit more output (SPL), but that's difficult for me to distinguish.
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