Quantcast
Channel: diyAudio
Viewing all 95177 articles
Browse latest View live
↧

My first build: need help on porting and enclosure design

May 31, 2020, 11:34 am
$
0
0
Hi guys,
I am a total newbie when it comes to speakers. I just got into it after my grandpa passed away and I got their stereo receiver. The stereo receiver can take 4 speakers, 2 channels A + B, with the minimum of 12 ohms per speaker if channels A + B are going. If it is A OR B, 2 speakers, the speakers are a minimum of 6 ohms each. These speakers are running in parallel, so the stereo system can handle a minimum of 3 ohm total. Stereo receiver is a Yamaha RX-395, where the manual says 45W + 45W RMS output power. For some reason, I want to have 4 speakers (really only using for my TV, like video games, and music, nothing crazy), so I started doing more research and looking on Facebook market if I could find some 12 ohm speakers. No luck. I looked into wiring and discovered I could wire 2 6 ohm speakers in series to make a 12 ohm box. That is when I took on creating my own speaker boxes. I have decided to make 4 speaker boxes, with 2 6 ohm speakers in each box, wired in series.
I watched some YouTube videos and decided to go with a full-range driver. I got 8 Dynavox LY401F 4" Full-Range Driver which is 6 ohms and has a decent frequency response. I started researching on designing a box after the drivers arrived and from a calculation I made, it appears I would need a ported box for more base. From this site, Speaker Box Enclosure Designer / Calculator, it is saying I need 1" diameter and 4.76in in length. These calculations are based on 1 speaker in a box, I plan on doubling everything (so two ports for one box). Wanted to check if that is accurate or not in the first place? Secondly, based on what I have looked at, I would like this port, Speaker Cabinet Port Tube 1" ID x 4" L Flared, but it is only 4 inches long. There is this other one, Speaker Cabinet Port Tube 1-1/8" ID x 6-1/2" L Flared, but it has a larger diameter. Which one would you get? I want the shorter one in length, but I am not sure, which measurement is more important?
I may be overkilling it with 4 speakers, but I am having fun with it, and that is all that matters. Curious what tips, tricks, and suggestions you guys have. Thanks for reading and helping!
↧
Search

New to this world, beginner help for wifi streaming

May 31, 2020, 11:36 am
$
0
0
Hi I'm a casual-fi low-effort DIYer. I'm on the hunt for a nice solution to play spotify, airplay, and similar things through my existing amp & speakers.

I'd love for this to be as plug&play as possible but I know how to boot a linux kernel or solder a circuit board component if absolutely needed. One of the biggest things I'm after is an easy/seamless interface. I DO NOT want to have to go to a web browser in order to adjust the audio stream.

Most of our computers are Mac, our phones are a mix of Android and Apple.

I saw that there's an up2stream board available on amazon for $50 that almost fits the bill with airplay and an app for mobile devices, BUT it's 2.4ghz wifi only and we use 5ghz.

I'm only somewhat concerned about audio fidelity. Ease of use and total cost are much higher priorities to me.

Is a raspberryPi able to meet this need? Do I need to shell out for a Sonos Connect or similar non-DIY solution? Is there a competitor to up2stream that has 5ghz wifi modules? Did I miss a sticky thread that all beginners should read to understand the lay of the land?

I probably have lots of other questions, but any intro help that can be given would be lovely.
↧
↧

v3 power supply testing

May 31, 2020, 12:27 pm
$
0
0
hi - i am about to test my F5. I am planning the following steps

1)test the softboard unconnected

2) connect softboard -> transformer (unconnected secondary)

3) transformer -> v3 PSU. not connected to the F5 board. The question is if it is unconnected, how would the PSU discharge itself?

4) test L and R channel separately.

Would this strategy work? i got a light bulb tester widget.

thanks alot

Philip
↧

LR2 crossovers

May 31, 2020, 12:41 pm
$
0
0
Novice at this here!! I have just purchased a pair of Tannoy 8" drivers for my Decca Corner Horns and I am puzzling over crossovers. Would there be an advantage in employing Linkwitz Riley type over a Butterworth? I don't even know if the LR needs a power supply!!
↧

Dynaco Stereo 400 Hum

May 31, 2020, 1:49 pm
$
0
0
Hello all, looking for assistance/advise with the following:

Problem Summary
There is an annoying (power supply?) hum during quiescent (no input signal) conditions that's also noticeable during quiet musical passages. Also, the relay intermittently fails to pull in on power-up. When this happens, a sharp slap on the cover will coax the relay into behaving. Otherwise, the amplifier still works well. Crystal clean sound at rock-concert volume.

Background
I assembled the unit in 1974 and it's provided many decades of enjoyable listening. The problems started a little over a ten years ago. I opened it up in 2010 and performed a major overhaul: reworked poor solder connections, cleaned up the wiring, etc. With the problem still uncorrected, I took it to a local repair shop. He found damaged land on PC-30 (the power supply board) and laid in some new solder. This greatly reduced the hum's level but it's still present. I recently found another PC-30 from someone parting out a unit on eBay. Just installed the new (to me) board with no improvement.

I started looking online but cannot find anyone with the same issue. I did find instructions for setting the bias and DC offset. Just did that - no help. Any ideas?

Also...
I've read some threads on this site and noticed that many members are hobbyists who enjoy rebuilding audio gear. I'm more of the pragmatic sort. I'd like to find and correct this problem - that's all. I have a Fluke Scope Meter and I'm willing to do reasonable troubleshooting but if it comes down to replacing all the capacitors or changing out dozens of other components, I'll just go buy a new amplifier. Not going to throw too much $$ at a 46 year-old unit.

Thanks in advance.
↧
↧

LM4562 feedback capacitance value

May 31, 2020, 1:54 pm
$
0
0
I am wanting to retrofit LM4562s into my old Dolby 363 units, which currently use noisy, slow, and dirty 4558s. I will, of course, put 100nF caps between the power rails on each opamp. I was also going to put 100pF caps across the feedback resistors in order to curb any possible oscillations. Any downside to doing this?
↧

Design advice for newbie

May 31, 2020, 2:00 pm
$
0
0
Hi I just got into amp design and still learning. Here is my attempt at a Class AB amp design. Any advice to improve my design or anyone can point me to reading material or topics to look into to further improve? Thanks :)

Attached Images
File Type: png 75wv2.png (16.3 KB)
↧

DIY amp completed - part I : PGDlx and PGJ.

May 31, 2020, 2:03 pm
$
0
0
OK Guys - I may have posted some pictures about them many years ago, but since I reworked these amps recently and also because my previous picture hoster collapsed... I repost... :o;)

(Just click on the pics to see them with correct proportions, and then real size with clicking the icon at the left bottom of the pic :) )

The Paul GUILHEM Deluxe (lower) and Paul GUILHEM Junior (upper) :

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

The PGDlx offers some extra facilities from now on :

Click the image to open in full size.

- A FSWable booster (below the input jack).
- A Fixed/Cathode bias operation SW (HIGH/LOW).
- A rectifier mode SW (Valve/Diodes).
- A feedback SW (Tight/Loose).
- 14 to 24W RMS clean power output, depending on the power stage and PSU modes selected.

The PGJ offers less - due to its compact size :

Click the image to open in full size.

- A FSWable booster (at the back).
- A Presence rotary switch.
- A Triode/Pentode mode SW (HI/LO).
- 5 or 23WRMS clean power, depending on the power stage mode selected.

But none of them are lightweight... 23.5Kg for the biggest, 14.5kg for the smallest... :o

A new version - even more compact - of the PGJ :

Click the image to open in full size.

Size comparison :

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

And still heavy... :rolleyes:

A+!
↧
Search

Nakamichi SR4A protection issue

May 31, 2020, 2:12 pm
$
0
0
I have recapped a Nakamichi SR4A- sorted out the power supply, switch noises, some dead caps and even had it playing beautifully for a few hours.

I then started to reassemble it (bottom plate then top cover) and now it wont come out of protection- so I have disassembled, read all the previous posts here (and on AK), checked resoldered any dodgy looking connections and even found a broken wire....and yet still in protection.

I know the speaker relays work (they clicked beautifully before the reassembly), so now I am flumoxed.

The protection circuit components all measure correctly, and IC901 which is the protection IC has the following:

Pin1 -0v
pin2 0.14v
pin3 0v
Pin4 1.9v- not this comes form CN27- pin 1is 45v and pin 2-connected to pin4 on the IC is 1.9v
Pin5 0v
Pin 6 44v
Pin 7 0,05v
Pin 8 3.43v

additionally the speaker relays are controlled by the speaker switches- which switch the 45v rail on pin 1 of CN 26 and return via speaker switch A to pin2 and speaker switch B to 3.these then go via 2w 1k resistors to the coil of the relay.

With either switch A or B in the off position there is 41v at pins 2 and 3, when switched in this rises to 45v- this seems wrong to me

CN17 pin 2 has 30v which goes to thermistor-and then connects to pin 5 (0v).

However I am very confused as everything worked great until the reassembly- which has made me double check all the connections and where the screws go etc.

I have attached the relevant part of the circuit

Any guidance on how to debug this would be greatly appreciated

Attached Files
File Type: pdf NAK 4A Protect.pdf (1.28 MB)
↧
↧

Boston Subwoofer HPS 10se humming

May 31, 2020, 2:13 pm
$
0
0
Hi I am new here and am in need of some help. My subwoofer jsut recently started making a humming noise(60hz) and disconnect it from the home theater and it continues to him with power. The unit when connected receives bass and plays but with the humming. I’ve taken it apart and checked the capacitors and they seem good but haven’t tested them. Also I have moved it to another room to see if it was ground interference but still has a the hum. It becomes louder when polarity is flipped 180. Any help on diagnosis would be much appreciated.
↧

DIY amp completed - part II : FB Custom

May 31, 2020, 2:16 pm
$
0
0
I built this one for an amateur luthier friend who helped me restore guitars and built some custom-made models for me... :)

Click the image to open in full size.

The FB CUSTOM offers a 10WRMS clean power output, plus FSWable booster and master volume, allowing to juggle on with an array of clean-unboost / overdrive-boost settings if desired, even at home loudness.

Click the image to open in full size.

And this time, the weight is correct with (only :rolleyes:) 10.5kg FSW incuded... :cool:;)

A+!
↧

Bluetooth + amixer volume control

May 31, 2020, 2:23 pm
$
0
0
Hi,

I'm using the following .asoundrc file:
Code:
pcm.!default {
  type plug
  slave.pcm plugequal;
}
ctl.!default {
  type hw card 0
}
ctl.equal {
  type equal;
}
pcm.plugequal {
  type equal;
  slave.pcm bt
}
pcm.equal {
  type plug;
  slave.pcm plugequal;
}
pcm.bt {
    type plug
    slave.pcm {
        type bluealsa
        device "32:00:00:02:84:BD"
        profile "a2dp"
        delay -20000
    }
}
I cannot change the volume in the Bluetooth device using amixer. I tried:
amixer sset PCM 0% -M
amixer -D default sset PCM 0% -M
amixer -D bt sset PCM 0% -M
The volume doesn't change.

Thanks!
↧

4" to 5" speaker suggestion for fullrange MLTL build with some more bass??

May 31, 2020, 2:46 pm
$
0
0
I have already built 2 TABAQ pairs (MLTL which are very similar in dimensions) and now I am hooked... Now almost any simple bass reflex commercial speakers up to 500EUR with that rubbery bass sound flawed to me.


Your advice is needed for another build. I feel ready for bigger and a bit more expensive, requirements to make it more narrow suggestion:
  1. Finished speaker has to go a bit deeper than TABAQ, lets say that 10Hz lower is ok, especially some more bass in 40-50Hz range.
  2. Decent quality of treble at 10-14kHz. I really understand, that full-ranger will not be as crisp as dedicated tweeter, but midwoofers acting as full-ranges is not to my liking. I am deaf above 13.5kHz, so the very upper part does not matter.
  3. 4-6 inch full-range speaker. 3 inch and smaller excluded. Preferably with as little correction filters or equalization required, but this is not deal-breaker. Price per one driver up to 80 USD/EUR, if there is smth head and shoulder above everything else - can be 100USD/EUR per unit. It should be available in Europe. Probably I am still not ready for MarkAudio, so exclude them for now...
  4. Speaker type - MLTL or other similar quarterwave type designs. The sound of them really impressed me, also space is limited. The only exception could be compact front firing horn if it has any advantages to MLTL.

With all above, what you, dear DIY colleagues would suggest me? Is it WIBAQ sized speaker with some cool but cheap driver I want to build?
I am not afraid of Hornresp anymore, so will simulate anything you will suggest me ;)



All suggestions are appreciated! Thanks in advance!
↧
↧

Is it a broadcast inductor or a constant type.

May 31, 2020, 5:45 pm
$
0
0
I have two Freed inductors sold in this case as Hazeltine. It has the number FR1120 for Hazeltine and 2237112 for Freed on the 2 chokes rated at 2 Henrys, measuring 10 Ohms each, and looks like they have been "Tropicalized" in military terms, sprayed with an opaque protectant all over. I also have a Paeco 712-1 rated at 36 mH and measures .3 Ohms, and is open framed and NOT tropicalized. I'd like to use them in audio. Good idea or bad idea? Thanks in advance for your consideration! buffstereo1/aka Robert
↧

Tubes 4 Hifi PH16X Build

May 31, 2020, 6:30 pm
$
0
0
I just finished up this PH16X build. Thanks to Roy for promptly answering all my questions. For a first build all went well.

Everything tested fine after I first powered it up. The PH16 made great music right out of the gate.

Now, what to build next?

Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1.jpg (204.4 KB)
File Type: jpg 2.jpg (191.3 KB)
File Type: jpg 3.jpg (274.1 KB)
File Type: jpg 4.jpg (251.9 KB)
File Type: jpg 5.jpg (254.5 KB)
File Type: jpg 6.jpg (229.8 KB)
File Type: jpg 7.jpg (127.4 KB)
↧
Search

POWER FOR SSD

May 31, 2020, 7:42 pm
$
0
0
Pchifi, power supply is a key point, the thousands of dollars of data line of SATA is played, but it is still the main power supply for hard disk power.

No matter mechanical or SSD, the 2.5-inch hard disk only uses a set of 5V power supply. In this scheme, 12V voltage from the power supply line is used for secondary processing, and power is supplied to the hard disk after noise reduction and voltage stabilization.

In the output stage, tps7a8300 with noise as low as 6uv is used, which enables the hard disk to escape from the complex ripple environment on the host

Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1.jpg (37.5 KB)
File Type: jpg 2.jpg (54.9 KB)
↧

sonicap capacitor

May 31, 2020, 7:44 pm
$
0
0
Question: My sonicap gen1 1uF 200VDC capacitor's capacitance is measuring at .975. Does this mean it's faulty?

Thank for helping out a clueless drummer!

-Joe
↧
↧

Focusrite Saffire phantom power

May 31, 2020, 7:47 pm
$
0
0
I stuck a multimeter in my Focusrite Saffire to test the phantom power and it's only at 43-44V (instead of 48V). Is this a problem? Should it be higher?

Thanks -

Joe
↧

Proposed 3-way design - your recommendations?

May 31, 2020, 7:58 pm
$
0
0
Hey fellow audio DIYers. newbie here. After 3 months of reading speaker reviews, endless pages of Econowave, dipole and horn design threads, I've decided to build my first pair of speakers instead of buying new 2-way bookshelf speakers for my apartment space. I figure for the same price I can do better.

Accordingly, I am hereby humbly accepting any constructive feedback from this forum's esteemed membership on my below overall design choices before I calibrate my table saw. Thank you in advance!

Objectives:
- medium loudness listening levels in a 16'x16' living room space, 8' high ceiling, music only
- desiring very good hi-fi low-upper midrange accuracy, clarity and balance for jazz, classical, R&B
- total audio components cost to be < $350.00
- will install pre-assembled crossover, not a custom-built crossover (because of job, kids and many hobbies time constraint)
- cannot be huge speakers (wife/GF speaker low dislike factor)
Overall design:
- 100-150W max power, passive, 3-way, floorstanding, 2 speakers only, no subwoofer planned
- committed to 12" woofer in bass-reflex cabinet (3.1 cu.ft.) - enclosure separate from midrange CD horn and supertweeter
- leaning towards a 1000Hz/5000Hz 8-ohm crossover and drivers
- going for controlled directivity with a midrange 1" compression driver horn - so far decided on a JBL JRX speaker waveguide clone like the ones used in the Econowave designs (rated good for down to 1000Hz, and with very minimal "colouration" as I understand it), eg., Dayton Audio H6512 6-1/2" x 12" Waveguide 1-3/8"- 18 TPI
- will order drivers and components from Parts Express and/or other recommended suppliers
- maybe prudent to install L-pads for midrange horns and supertweeters?
- construction: 3/4" MDF well braced cabinet w/ thicker front baffle made of MDF and maple or walnut veneer plywood exterior, internal sound dampening material is still TBD
Specific components:
- woofer, midrange 1" compression driver and supertweeter choices - still TBD
Existing audio path:
- mp3s, flacs on laptop/HDD --> Schitt Modi DAC --> 1990's Yamaha 60W/ch receiver--> speakers
- better hi-fi 100W 2-channel integrated SS amp planned for near future
- to add switchover tube amplfier option/experimenting in 5+ years

See included 2D frontal scale diagram of speaker design for your reference - this is how I would envision it.

So, what am I forgetting or should be considering? Or recommendations from anyone who has built a similar 3-way? And yes, I have reviewed the "So you want to design your own speaker from scratch!" thread.

Happy listening to all. :)

Attached Images
File Type: jpeg speaker1.jpeg (52.1 KB)
↧

POWER FOR SSD

May 31, 2020, 7:59 pm
$
0
0
Pchifi, power supply is a key point, the thousands of dollars of data line of SATA is played, but it is still the main power supply for hard disk power.

No matter mechanical or SSD, the 2.5-inch hard disk only uses a set of 5V power supply. In this scheme, 12V voltage from the power supply line is used for secondary processing, and power is supplied to the hard disk after noise reduction and voltage stabilization.

In the output stage, tps7a8300 with noise as low as 6uv is used, which enables the hard disk to escape from the complex ripple environment on the host
↧
Viewing all 95177 articles
Browse latest View live
Search