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Audio Analogue Puccini faulty phono stage

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I've just got hold of an AA Puccini SE. It sounds great from all the sources apart from the turntable, when one speaker works only at a very low volume. Ive swapped the leads around and the problem stays in the same channel, so the fault appears to be in the amp.

There is no visible component failure. Can anyone advise if this is likely to be practically repairable?

Such a shame.

Class D BTL Amplifier current

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Hi guys,

I have got confused with class D BTL configuration. In fact, the output voltage after LC should be VCC*2. What in this case happens to the current? Should it get 2 times as small or stay the same as for a single-ended connection?

What happens to a PBTL configuration in this case? What‘s the current value? I also can’t understand how to calculate a maximum peak duration pulse for the power source for the first and the second case and what will the equation be.

Thank you, Olga

Donation subs, need help running specs

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If you don't like story time scroll down to TLDR for super direct version! :cool:

Right off the bat I'd like to say I normally run 600w FTR18-4080F subs since I'm able to source them locally and they have the right power rating to work in my system, I run 4 of these off one mono block 2400w amp in series+parallel configuration, so I need all 4 of them running together in order to get the most power and run properly to get 2400w at 8ohm in series+parallel. I run just my subs with the house system most times for djing since most gigs don't have the low end I need for my music or have muddy overcompressed dead rack units powering their subs so its better for me to bring some bass.

Now I lent a buddy of mine two of my FTR18-4080F subs and he blew them, leaving me with 2 subs and two empty sub slots. He paid me the price of new subs, but I had a djing gig coming up that I needed to use them for and couldn't wait the shipping time on more FTR's.

So I talked to a buddy of mine and he donated me a pair of these 600w rockville RVP18W8's he had as "backup" in case he ever blew a pair of his real 18s at a show, he'd be back up asap.

I asked him if these subs where actually legit if he was giving away for free but he assured me they would be fine, he had tried them and while not as good as his they worked according to him. I took them home, looked them up online and found out they are ultra budget $60 drivers lol so this didn't help my faith very much, I expected to blow them tbh but I was out of options so I tossed them in the gsub cab.

So I ran the show with them cut at 150hz with a low cut at 30hz same as I was running the FTR18-4080F. For this particular show I needed to spread things out a bit so I had two subs on one side and two subs on the other side, due to this I was able to tell the differences between the two subs. Both are nearly equally loud when standing with one on each side of you, but in different ways, the FTR18-4080F was lower/deeper/rumble that felt like higher db at lower hz range while the RVP18W8 seemed to be more poppy/chest hitting higher db at higher hz range. I didn't run any software or anything, this is purely just my opinion from my ears and from standing in front (feel). I think this has to do with the 3 inch verse 4 inch voice coils, only other difference seems to be the FTR has a wider/thinner magnet while the RVP has a thicker/less wide magnet, I'd again assume this is due to voice coil size. The build quality was on par too, I was actually pretty impressed when I unpacked them, this doesnt feel like a cheap off brand like pyle pro ("pyle blows" at rms is more like it) or even a cheap $60 driver, all connections look solid from the voice coil to the posts and even the posts for wire are good (not solder ends or easily removed or broken off pcb). Glue job on the spider and surround are both solid, it even has the wire go into the spider instead of straight to the cone/coil to prevent that dreaded inside cone hitting wire sound like I had on a pair of Dayton Audio subs... So I mean these are getting two thumbs up from me! What I'd like to do is run winisd on both drivers and see the difference instead of standing in front of and poking my head around extremely loud 18s.

Now with that being said, I've used them again since then but right next to each other (side by side, then the RVP cab ontop of the FTR cab) and I think it feels/sounds better then when I had four FTR18-4080F's, the two different sub types even in the same cabs (gsub) produce different volumes of different hz and I honestly like it to the point where I haven't replaced them yet or felt the need to, the RVP is up top and hits your in the chest, the FTR is down bottom and rumbles everything. They pair pretty well together, even power handling, I'm giving them 2400w (their rms) into 4 subs and you can tell they could take more power since there is still a little xmax room in the last ring, but are loud enough/moving enough that I dont feel like I need more power.

With this all being said, the RVP's are in a gsub case made for FTR's, so I'd like to buy another 2 of each and then run 4 of each for a total of 4x double 18x total. Since I already have the FTR cases made, this means designing a case for the RVP's... only problem is I'm either a idiot or their websites specs don't line up with the software I'm using, or both! :D I'd like to use winisd again since it worked out great on my FTR gsubs, however again due to being a idiot or their specs, I can't get past putting the speaker specs into the program to even start designing the damn box, or even pick what box type I may want.

Either way I got two new FTR subs on the way now and I want to put them back into their gsubs, so I'll need to do something with these two RVP's since they won't have a case pretty soon here.

TLDR:

~Got donated rockville RVP18W8 $60 subs, extremely surprised I didn't blow them and they kept up to my other 600w subs as advertised. :nod:

~Want to make cab for them that actually is made for them since they will be cab-less soon. :cheerful:

~Too stupid to translate their websites specs to winisd to start designing. :guilty:

~Feels bad. :o

Help a girl out won't you? :(

Can someone give me a "translated" version of the specs in winisd or a screen shot of it already in winisd so I could go from there?

More volt = move volume?

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Basic question probably but if I used an 18v supply over a 12v would that give me more volume before distortion (obviously if the speakers are rated a lot higher than the amp)?

Amp Camp Amp

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I'm thinking of getting the new Amp Camp Amp which will ship July 31. I have a turntable which has its own preamp. I notice the A-C-A amp. does not have volume control and I see no way to adjust the volume without using an integrated amp with volume control. Therefore, it seems the A-C-A will not be what I'm looking for.

If it is suitable and I order two kets, how would I connect them to double the power or will instructions be included.

Edbog

very old stuff

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Hi all

Who do know what these are, no these are not morse keys.
Maybe here someone know.

regards

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Is it possible to build a guitar preamp with EF89?

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Hey all!
So I saw some amps using EF86 but never saw any using EF89 which are usually radio tubes, so is it possible?

Pierre Boulez home for sale -- complete w soundroom


New Jordan JX150/A.C.Ribbon Design

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I thought I'd share details here of my latest loudspeaker project.

Jordan JX150NG
Aurum Cantus G2si
2nd order H.P.
3rd order L.P.
Crossover 3.5kHz

The passive crossover was designed using frequency response, impedance and phase measurements of the drive units in the
enclosure. Phase tracking through the crossover region is as close as I could get it whilst keeping the high pass section 2nd order to avoid the need for a second capacitor. The jx150ng response starts to wiggle above 2.5kHz which didn't help so I aimed for close phase tracking through, and either side of the crossover rather than a deep reverse null. I Later fine tuned the inductor and resistor values to account for actual measured capacitor values. The high pass capacitor is teflon film/foil.

The metal grill has been removed from the ribbon for improved transparency, my thanks to mikelm for this suggestion as it makes a remarkable improvement. The treble enclosure sits on the main enclosure via a concealed fixing which both holds the unit in place and allows some forward/backward movement for fine tuning of phase via adjustment of the vertical offset should it be necessary. At present the offset is set for best overall phase tracking following my simulations and I haven't felt any need to alter this but according to simulation forward adjustment of 1/4" from its current position should offer a deep reverse null should I decide to see which actually sounds better.

The crossover is situated in a separate compartment in the base of the main enclosure which is 3/4" ply with a ceramic lining and cross bracing for rigidity. At 25L (sealed) it is on the small side for the JX150NG but at 25kG it is already heavy so rather than accommodate the reduced size by lowering the Qts of the Jordan via a resistor across its second voice coil which would have reduced efficiency, the response was equalized to remove the resultant slight bass lift of 1dB or so via a resizing of the input capacitor on the amplifier input, preserving efficiency and reducing the amplifier's work load. The resulting bass roll off integrates well with a subwoofer, in this case at 65Hz.

Subjectively there is a lovely sense of precision plus resolution. Depth and width spacial information is excellent and the treble is extremely light and airy. It has incredible ambience and is a real joy. Instruments and voice are at least as focused as my trusty Quad ESL63s, and in some ways actually better. Despite the less than ideal Jordan roll-off the midrange is really good too with clean detail and plenty of it without any noticeable transition to the treble...to my relief.

Possible future improvements?
1. Maybe swap the laminated steel bass inductors for air core. These are 0.9mH and 0.56mH. Suggestions here would be very welcome.
2. Possibly replace the MOX resistors in the treble section with something else?

Thoughts/suggestions welcome.

Tim

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GB For Salas SSLV1.3 Ultra-BIB

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SSLV1.3 - The Ultra-BIB
The group buy is for an updated Low Voltage shunt reg designed by Salas. This is the third generation of the board. The first being the BIB board, the second implemented in the Folded RIAA board. This updated board uses no NOS JFETs making parts to supply and costs easier to predict. The circuit has been updated an initial clinical listening test have been positive, and noted as an improvement to the original BIB design.

Original Thread SSLV1.3 "Ultra-BIB"

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/power...ml#post5427621

Salas thoughts..
As the beloved SSLV1.1 BiB shunt reg was getting long in the tooth especially for NOS JFETS I had in mind for some time now to design its successor. The goals were: 1. In production parts 2. Much simpler to set up. 3. Better technical and subjective performance.

After many breadboard experiments and two prototype PCB iterations I feel that my goals were finally met. So here comes the UltraBiB

-Uses no NOS parts.
-Can do 5V to 40V output without changing a thing in its configuration.
-Nothing to choose and match. No tolerances in predicting its CCS limit setting.
-Has 45dB more open loop gain and many times less output impedance than 1.1
-Sounds easily better.
-Its an electrically and mechanically drop in replacement for an upgrade.

Some initial qoutes on sound

From Dimdim
"When we swapped it in place of the BiB 1.1 in my Soekris, the improvement was immediately obvious and not subtle. There was a general improvement in clarity and silence, but the biggest improvement (imho) is that the music appeared to have more energy in the lower mid area, where before it was kind of "dry". This was with Salas' very first prototype, built with standard (non-boutique) components. The board that I built with audio grade capacitors in the filter bank and MUSE BP caps in the output sounded even better."

From VGeorge
"The change in sound to better was apparent at first listen. As other have described, better clarity and definition throughout the audio range, but for me it was also apparent up high the frequency where I could hear more power but without any harshness."

Click the image to open in full size.

The board will consist of three different reg's on one board. The board is V-Scored and can be broken into three boards, two boards etc.

On each full board there is a two positive regs and one negative rail reg.

Extra mini-kits (partial kits) are available to support building of the board - but leave out C1 Filtering cap and most resistors .

The boards will sell for $25 each, with $8 minimum shipping USA and Canada 10 min International, paypal only. Shipping has increased substaintially for international shipping, so I can only send a limited amount of boards and kits before it becomes a "package" as opposed to a "flat" and the cost typically doubles.


Parts Kit Downloadable
UltraBIB Minikits - Google Sheets

UBIB Positive Minikit $14
Click the image to open in full size.

UBIB Negative Minikit $14
Click the image to open in full size.
The group buy sign up sheet will be on my signature.

Hypex DLCP/UcD400 build

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I'm building a 6-channel integrated amp using a Hypex DLCP and 6x UcD400OEM modules. I posted a few questions in the Hypex DSP module(s) thread, but I've been feeling guilty about taking that thread off-topic by posting questions about interfacing to the UcD400OEM modules. So I thought I'd start a sort of build thread here, where I could ask some specific electronics questions.

I'm a novice at PCB designing, but since Hypex won't sell their OEM converter boards to non-OEMs, I've designed my own board. First samples are due in this week.

Click the image to open in full size.

I've attempted to make use of the 'clipping', 'current limiting' and 'amplifier ready' signals, by including LEDs on my adapter board to show their status. But now I'd like to think about putting 3 status LEDs on my front panel, and I'm looking for help with the circuit design.

What I'd like is for:
1) A front panel LED to light if *any* of the individual UcDs is clipping
2) A front panel LED to light if *any* of the individual UcDs is current limiting
3) A front panel LED to light *only* if *all* the individual UcDs is ready.

So I'll start with the current limiting (CLIM) circuit. The documentation for the UcD400OEM says that the current limiting signal is internally pulled up (limited to 5.6V I think), and goes low (to -VB, i.e. -63V) when current limiting. So on my adapter board I connected an LED between the CLIM pin and ground, so that when the signal goes to -63V I get current through the LED. What I want now is to take all 6 CLIM signals to a front panel PCB with an LED that lights if any of these signals goes low. Would somebody be able to take a look at the schematic below and tell me if I'm on the right lines?

Click the image to open in full size.

I would bring all the CLIM signals onto a 6-pin header JP1. LED1 to LED6 are the LEDs on my individual adapter boards. They are 10mA, 2V LEDs, so R1 to R6 are 6k1 - actually my board has two resistors in series for each of these resistors to give me flexibility over resistor values and power spec.

LED7 would be my front panel LED. D1 to D6 are diodes, because I think that if one pin goes low it would tend to pull all the others low as well, so the lights on each adapter would light. I'd rather that didn't happen, as I'd like to be able to look through the ventilation holes in the top of the enclosure to see which channel is current limiting. With those diodes I *think* I'd get only the LED on the corresponding adapter lighting up plus the one on the front panel.

Am I on the right lines? If so I think I can apply the same approach to the clipping signals (although they are the opposite way round: +63V normally, pulled to <=1V when clipping). The amplifier ready signals will take more effort I think, because I want a front panel LED that goes out if any of the amplifier ready lights goes out. Any suggestions for that one would be most welcome!

Precision Power PCX480

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I picked this amplifier up for a steal at a local pawn shop knowing it had a non working channel. After closer inspection it looks as if the channel is not blown but signal is never making it to the output section of that channel. I am writing this in hopes that someone may have a schematic for this amplifier or similar amplifier in the series. I am having some trouble tracking down where the signal stops. It comes in through standard rca jacks and then gets routed to a daughter board for the crossover section and then back to the main. If anyone has helpful information on these particular amps I would love to hear it. Thank you guys in advance for your help.

Headphone Amp - AD797 compensation, distortion cancellation caps

vu meter on balanced amp

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Hi all,
I've built an amp across an Anaview AMS 1000 module a few months ago, and now i'm planning to add a vu meter kit like this one: 2x Panel VU Meter 500UA Warm Back Light Recording&Audio Level Amp w/Driver Board 898149527904 | eBay
The intention was to connect it in parallel to the inputs but... from what i see the board has a three-pin input, L+, R+ and a common GND. Since i'm running my amp in balanced mode, i'm wondering if there's a way to drive those meters without shorting the two cold poles.

Rokit 5 limiters

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Hey folks,
Last fall I overhauled the amps in my Rokit 5 G3s, which completely transformed their character from dull and logy to noticeably clear(er) and dimensional. Felt like someone took some wet cotton swabs out of my ears. They're obviously not top shelf speakers, and I find the high end a little fatiguing (I understand the tweeters have pretty high distortion levels), but it was definitely a worth while endeavor and made them quite usable for about $50/ea in parts. Photos attached.

One thing I didn't address, however, are the "precision limiters" KRK says are in the amp, largely because of time but also because I didn't want to start cutting things out without really knowing what they were doing. Called Gibson hoping to get schematics––"not authorized to release schematics" was the response I got, no surprise. There is this mystery circuit (near the top of the photograph with the emptied PCB) that caught my attention. Right next to the jumper cable plug (which looks to be for some sort of digital accessory, connected to nothing) is a circuit with a couple of diodes and two transistors, with a small removable jumper. Since this is right next to the LF amp, I'm guessing this is the best candidate for being the limiter, and my hope is the small jumper is an easy disconnect.

Attachment 680416

Attachment 680417

Attachment 680418

Obviously I can poke around with a multimeter, or pull the jumper and "see what happens," but if anyone more experienced than I has any ideas, I'd appreciate hearing them!

Thanks in advance!

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voltage source

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Hi to u all,
in these modern times,with sophistication of the technology.could it be that one day an infinite voltage source be developped or is this impossible as no matter what is done some resistance will aĺways be present.?

FS: Jantzen Alumen Z Caps

50 pc. Peerless by Tymphany TC9FD18-08

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My project won't be realised due to a veto by housewife :-( . So i'm selling ma unused 50 pc.
Peerless by Tymphany TC9FD18-08

Best bang for the bucks!

https://www.tymphany.com/wp-content/...TC9FD18-08.pdf


Every single driver has been tested, mdat-files can be provided. That was the only use of the speakers.


Selling of the whole lot is preffered for 450,- EUR plus shipping within EU. I have +1000 positive feedback on ebay (nickname: bavaricus). Please send me a PN if interessted.

Help Anti-Skating & tracking force Philips black Tulip!

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Hi,

I need Help with my Philips black Tulip turntable it is sounding distorted what is the correct value for tracking force and antiskate? How do I find it out?

The turntable is Philips AF-829 with Philips 412 cartridge.

toshiba 2sk170bl and 2sj75bl( 2sj74 x2) matched jfets

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I have some 2sk170bl for sale and some 2sj75 ( 2 x 2sj74 in a single package.)

I have 8 matched quads and a few more matched pairs of 2sk170bl.

Please send me a PM if interested.
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