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Rotel RSP-1066 chassis

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For Sale - Rotel RSP-1066 Chassis only. All the guts removed - was planning a Preamp build, lost interest...transformer still in chassis...

if you come and pick up (west sub of Chicago) its $35. otherwise $35 + ship (please don't make me ship)

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New SSE test stage and questions

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Yay, I'm just about finished assembling my SSE. I built it with all the options: UL/triode switch, SS/Tube switch, CFB switch, and a rotary switch to change cathode bias resistor values. Is it OK to toggle any/all of the switches while the amp is powered on? Would like to do some instant A/B comparisons of the various modes if possible. Thanks!

Yaqin SD-CD3 Tube Buffer

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Can you hookup two separate amps, one to the main speakers and the other to a subwoofer using a splitter ?

Threshold Bastard Amp

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Here's a fairly unique looking Threshold beast:

THRESHOLD Power Amplifier Class A 4000 200 Watt/Channel STASIS Stereo Power | eBay

Front panel is from 4000 amp, chassis looks like a 400, but it's got an "e series" upgrade sticker on it and balanced inputs added. They took the model and serial # sticker off the back of the chassis too. Lord knows what's under the hood. All for the low, low price of $5000...or feel free to make an offer.

I wrote the owner and noted all of these discrepancies and told him/her that they were definitely not selling a 4000, but no response and no change to the auction either.

Jeff

TA2020 vs TPA3118 vs TDA8932 comparison

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Advance warning: this is a long read. If this subject interests you, get yourself a coffee now, or something stronger.

PREFACE
In 2010 I assembled a Tripath TA2020 amp board - the diyparadise Charlize 2, which was at that time considered the best of the TA2020 boards, and the TA2020 was still flavour-of-the-month as budget hifi amplifier.
For power supply I chose the well regarded Paul Hynes PR3G2 13.8V regulator, fed from a conventional 120VA EI transformer.
Then life intervened, and it took me another 7 years until I eventually built up a music server/DAC plus Planet10/MarkAudio speakers, to complete my hifi setup. It took another 6 months to sort out a few earthing/ground loop issues, and for the speakers to fully break-in. I am now reasonably happy with the sound, but the bass is a little over-emphasised, like when a loudness knob is turned up. Also I can't help thinking that the high-end nature of my transport, DAC, and speakers makes my system deserve an amplifier which is more than just "budget champion" status. Of course I've heard the hype about the new budget class D amplifiers such as the TPA3110/3116/3118, and the more recent TPA3255, but my preferred upgrade path is (or was) to leapfrog class D altogether, and go for a class AB amplifier such as the Ranchu/AKSA Quasi-Complementary, or the Apex AX11.

Meanwhile I became interested in building a small boombox-style music system in order to hear my music outside my house, on the deck, without needing to crank up the main system to carry the sound outside.
So I recently decided to buy and test the well regarded (and cheap) Sanwu TPA3118 and Sanwu TDA8932 amplifier boards. I had read the long forum posts regarding improvements to these boards, and I was concerned that my TA2020 was built to a higher standard, thus it wasn't going to be a fair comparison unless I did some basic upgrades to the Sanwu boards. So this is what I did:
- replace the output inductors with Wurth WE-PD 22uH inductors.
- bypass the onboard input caps, then wire IN+, IN-, and GND to 3pin XLR connectors. For some tests, good quality input capacitors (Wima MKP10) will then be wired outboard.
- for the 3118 - gain reduction mod, by removing R27.
- for the 8932 - add more capacitance to pin 12, in preparation for full balanced connection from DAC output transformer.
Power supply will be a standard 19V SMPS, smoothed with a capacitance multiplier from ALLO. The cap multiplier is set to drop 0.1V.
And let me say that these small Sanwu boards are rather hard to work on!


SOURCE AND SPEAKERS
My transport is a BeagleBone Black with Twisted Pear Cronus isolation/reclocking board, mounted directly atop a QuangHao ES9018 DAC with Lundahl LL1684 transformer output stage. This output stage can be configured for unbalanced output, or balanced output, via jumpers. Since there's no DC offset from a transformer, it's possible to bypass input capacitors on the amplifier.
My speakers are Alpair 7 gen3 (fullrange) in Planet10-designed onken-style trapezoidal cabinets, which are designated "dMar-Ken7.3mT".
Since the purpose of these tests was to choose the best amp for a cheaper music system, I thought it would be a good idea to also test with a cheap speaker - and I already have a good cheap speaker lying around - the Micca MB42X, which is sold here in Australia as the "Voll B44".
Test outcomes were the same using either MarkAudio or Micca speakers, but the Miccas revealed differences more obviously.


LISTENING TESTS
1. DAC output unbalanced, via input caps.
First I tried the TA2020, since I'm quite familiar with this setup. As I mentioned earlier my only criticism here is that the bass is a little over-emphasised.
Then the 3118 - more detail, clarity, precise treble, and while the bass was still a little over-emphasised, the music was cleaner. I'm now getting an idea of what the TA2020's alleged "tube-like" characteristic might be.
Then the 8932 - similar to the 3118, just not as refined, and some harshness in the treble.

2. DAC output unbalanced, no input caps.
TA2020 - I could maybe detect just a very subtle improvement. The Charlize2 amp is supplied without input caps, because the designer claims it sounds better this way ... but I must say the difference is barely discernible.
3118 - a very small improvement in clarity. Bear in mind that the input caps in the previous test were quite good quality, and they don't seem to impede SQ by much.
8932 - does not work in this configuration.

3. DAC output balanced, secondary centre-tap to GND, no input caps.
3118 - ah, the over-emphasised bass is now gone, with a nicer tonal balance, and a clean, balanced sound.
8932 - does not work in this configuration.
TA2020 supports unbalanced inputs only.

4. for 8932 ONLY - unique connection from secondary centre-tap to amplifier pin 12 (input reference voltage)
Similar to previous result with 3118 - nice clean tonal balance - but occasional harshness in the treble remains.


RESULTS, CONCLUSIONS
I consider myself a rational sceptic, and I was never convinced by the hyperbole surrounding the TPA3118 and TDA8932 - specifically that their SQ eclipsed all that came before, including the TA2020.
But now I'm happy to concede that they are, indeed, better than the TA2020.
The 8932 is definitely in 2nd place behind the 3118. There are comments on this forum that the Sanwu 8932 amp board can be improved by cleaning up the voltage applied to the analogue supply pin, so that its SQ then leapfrogs the 3118, but I can say that presently the Sanwu 3118 sounds nicer than the Sanwu 8932 board.
UPDATE: just today I see an optimised TDA8932 board emerge on the forum! It will be interesting to see how it performs.

Balanced configuration with the 3118 is a clear winner in these listening tests ... but wait ... I don't suggest everyone with a 3118 amp should rush out to get a balanced DAC! This result should be seen in light of my particular situation - I have a transformer output stage with a specific configuration. Sure, you might expect these class D amps to sound slightly better using balanced input compared to using unbalanced input, but I don't imagine the difference to be as stark as the difference that I heard. No, I think this difference is more due to my DAC transformer output stage - I think its performance/characteristics are starkly different between its balanced and unbalanced configurations. This may be related to the topology - my transformer has a filter network on the primary side tailored to suit the ES9018 DAC.

On a related note, over in the TPA3118 forum thread I see it's popular to use an input transformer in unbal-to-bal configuration instead of input capacitors. This is similar to my situation, but not the same - especially in terms of the aforementioned filter network of my transformer. So it makes me wonder which aspect(s) of this input transformer achieve the apparent improvement in SQ:
i) using the amp in balanced input mode instead of unbalanced input mode?
ii) eliminating input caps? (in my tests, good quality input caps don't hurt the SQ of the 3118 very much)
iii) adding a transformer flavour to the sound?
iv) a combination of the above?


WHAT NEXT?
To get a better idea of the different quality outcomes of using unbalanced or balanced inputs of a TPA 3118, it would be useful to employ some form of output stage OTHER than a transformer; say a solid state device with switchable unbalanced/balanced outputs. Or maybe the direct output from a PCM5xxx DAC chip. The PCM5122 is unbalanced, and the PCM5242 is balanced. And both have no DC offset, so you can go cap-less into the amp.

But I've lost interest in any further tests at this stage. Winter is closing in, and building a 2nd system/boombox has fallen down the priority list!
For now I think I will probably swap out the Charlize TA2020 amp in my main system with the 3118 amp - and obviously connect the new amp in balanced configuration.
Can I be bothered to box up the 3118 boards in a nice chassis? Probably not. This generally ends up taking more time than you expect, and also I need to take some time to consider my next step with the hifi system overall. I now know that my source device is (significantly) better in balanced mode, so the unbalanced class AB amps I was previously considering are now probably off the list. If I stick with the TPA3118, maybe I should get one of the "premium" boards such as the newly released one from ALLO? Then again, current flavour-of-the-month seems to be the TPA3255, or for my fullrange speakers maybe more suitable would be its lower power brother the TPA3250?
And then there's the TPA3244 - I don't think anyone here has heard this amp yet?

Must sleep on it.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg test-rig.jpg (317.6 KB)

Pretty case spotted on eBay

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Electrocraft PE763 PAL Encoder | eBay

May be of interest for DIYers. Looks very Retro. Just looking out for the community. I would get it but don't need. (already got one).

I do not know the seller fyi.

Expect it to be 10" deep , 40mm tall, Approx 19 inches wide.
Cheers

Gibson E-150, Style 1 schematic

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Have this amp in for repair (maybe restoration). Those of you familiar, this one has a house fuse (I'm 67 yo, I know them well), the 80 rectifier, 6A6 preamp (no shield), and a pair of 42's. Tubes all Ken-Rad (appear to be the original set) and as stipulated on a Gibson model tag attached to the inside of the amp. Anyone know where I might find a schematic for this exact model? I have yet to find one with the pair of 42's. Oh, and this model only has one input jack, not two. I'm guessing it might be from one of the original late-1935 production runs. Anyway, correct schematic please, anyone? TIA. Pete

Is there any forum for headphone DIY?

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I looked thought but can find none... is DIY headphone not a appropriate topic on diyaudio?:confused:

Running out of space, cap advice sought

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If I run out of room and can't use a metalized polypropylene cap (33uF) and I do not want to use a bipolar aluminum electrolytic what should I do?

Hafler DH-200 Parting out

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I just acquired a Hafler DH-200. I have done very little testing on the unit, but the power supply is good. No hums from the transformer.

Parts available are:

Power transformer

4 - PNP outputs (QP112) Marked as 3 (2SJ49)
4 - NPN outputs (QN112) Marked as 2 (2SK134)

Driver boards with some mods - unknown if they work, no burnt traces. C1 capacitor is not on the board. It was mounted remotely.


Thanks for looking.

TDA8954 Weak Output

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Good day guys...

This is my first time posting here, I'm from Philippines.

Please forgive me for lacking knowledge in amplifiers and electronic because I'm a newbie. I wanted to build a small amplifier that can delivery much power that is sufficient for my small speakers. From where I come from, they prefer louder and powerful Amplifiers that is not my type.

I choose to work with TDA8954 Board that is already available online, powered it with 27-0-27 VAC Toroidal Transformer...

Now begins my problem, after connecting the PSU and the Amp, it produce only 3-6vac on both channels left and right, while my TPA3116D2 produce 10vac powered with 24v Car Battery...

I have no idea what to check here, the TDA8954 Board has no signs of damage or what so ever.

Both TDA8954 and TPA3116D2 was tested using 4ohms speaker 150watts(PMPO)...

If you need more info regarding my trouble, feel free to ask because I don't know if I provided much enough...

Please give me inputs on what to check on this board, I would really appreciate it...

Thanks!

This is the sample picture of the Board :
Click the image to open in full size.

TDA7492P Distortion

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Hi, new here. Let me begin by saying I have very little knowledge when it comes to amps and speakers and looking for some help. I'm making a Bluetooth speaker with this amplifier board:

Amazon.com: 50W + 50W TDA7492P 2x50 Watt Dual Channel Amplifier Wireless Digital Bluetooth 4.0 Audio Receiver Amplifier Board (Blue): Home Improvement
(TDA7492P 2x50W)

I know it's not anything amazing, but I want to try getting the best possible sound quality/volume I can out of it. It has 50W per channel, but I'm using 8 ohm speakers so I assume it is 25W (correct me if I'm wrong). I'm putting 12v into it, which is on the lower end of what it is allowed to take. I bought some sets of bookshelf speakers from goodwill and have been switching trying to find which give the better results. I don't know the proper speakers for it, which is why I'm probably having some issues. One set is the Sanyo st-95 (8 ohms, can't find specs) , another is JVC SP-D402 (3-way, 6 ohms, capacity 80W, 87dB/W), and finally soundesign 0657blk (2-way, nominal 3W, 8 ohm, 90dB/W). I probably don't have all of the info needed to figure out the problem, but ask and I'll see if I can find it.

No matter which speakers I use, I can't get above about half volume without distortion. I tried putting them into my lepai-2020A+ and all speakers sound good at high volume.

My question is what causes clipping (or distortion)? Not sure if those 2 terms are similar. I've read it can be from a lack of power, but both have the same input voltage but the TDA7492P has 50W and the lepai has 25W, so I have no idea why the sound quality goes with the higher volume. As you can see I really have no idea what I'm doing, but I love tinkering with this stuff and want to learn. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Replacing SMPS with Linear Supply on Blu Ray player

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I would like to replace the SMPS flyback supply with a linear power supply used in my Blu Ray player. I have tried improving on the existing SMPS flyback supply and I have had some successes – the noise is reduced as seen from the scope, and the sound is obviously improved, but ultimately could not completely get rid of the switching noise including ground noise. I could still see ripples and multiple ringing at the magnitude of up to 15mV ptp on the output lines and up to 5mV ptp noise on the ground at the switching frequency.

Thanks to the modular design, the SMPS power supply has its own board. It has the mains 110/230V input, and 12 connections on a socket. I think I could simply replace the board.

1. +5VSTB
2. PCON
3. +5V
4. +5V
5. GND
6. GND
7. +12VM
8. GND
9. +12VA
10. GND
11. -12VA
12. GND

I have no difficulties in designing some linear supplies for +5V, +12VM, +12VA and -12VA.

I have no issue in losing the STAND-BY function of the player if I have to.

I think +5VSTB can simply be connected to the +5V.

The question is, what about PCON? I presume I could use the same circuit as in the service manual which I own? But I am not 100% sure how that circuit works. If I don’t need the STAND-BY function, can I feed PCON from a resistor voltage divider from the +5V? If so, at what voltage?

And one more question, would I be able to easily find a 12 pin socket that matches the one in the player?

AER BD4

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Click the image to open in full size.

Extracted from Stereophile
Herb's First Morning in Munich | Stereophile.com

So, folks, here are a couple things you need to understand about Munich High End 2018:
As a rule, Europe brings to audio a different aesthetic and perspective than America—they are way less into giant, million-dollar, solid-state amplifiers and way more into low-power tube amps. And . . . they are definitely into horn loudspeakers in a way that most Americans cannot fathom. I was in Munich for three days and I could never have covered all the rooms featuring horn speakers. Can you imagine that many horn speakers at CES, RMAF, or AXPONA? I can't.
Mainstream taste in American high-end audio leans towards a kind of left-brain precision in detail, imaging, and, of course, super-tight bass response. Europeans, on the other hand, take a more colorful right brain approach. Europeans understand that presence = essence and they demand a lot corporeality from their hi-fis. Americans favor speed and focus while Europeans favor weight and body.
Americans want to see the piano. Europeans want to feel the piano—which is why they favor horns so much.



Click the image to open in full size.

Altec Lansing 15. Tip before buying

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Hello everyone
I have the option to buy the altec lansing 15 speaker for $ 500.
Today I have fostex FE206En with the cabinet plan.
Will this loudspeaker be an upgrade for me?


thanks

parallel 2x KT88 per channel SET?

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Hi guys, any advice on the above? A reputable company in Thailand offered to make me one- so I'd basically be buying without auditioning first. The builder says it will be built to accept KT120 and KT150 valves (he doesnt recommend the sound of the KT120)

HDMI to analog

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My wife just bought a new ultra 4K Blu-ray DVD player. My old Blu-ray DVD player had analog audio output. The new one does not. My Hafler preamp does not have digital input or optical. I use the players as much for CD as for DVD. I see digital to analog converter's online, most less than $15, but I worry about losing sound quality. Please advise. Thanks in advance.

Wrong components from suppliers.

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I recently bought a kit of parts from Farnell to build up some circuit boards.
As usual I just assumed right component was in right packet and built them up.
I then tested them and they didn't work.
So I went through the whole pcb with a multi meter testing every resistor and found one to be miles out.
Turned out they had wrong resistor in one packet.
So I rang them up and they quickly apologised and sent out the right component.
That is OK but I then had rework half a dozen pcb's and it took about an hour.

I then ordered a couple of mono 1/4" pcb mount jack socket from CPC.
They came and one was correct but other was stereo chassis mount.
In short they kept sending replacements but the stereo one each time.
They then said that the pictures are just for reference and don't always match component exactly. I then said in that case the description is wrong too as it describes a 2 pole, pcb mount 1/4" jack socket.
After the fourth time of getting it wrong I finally got the right component.

Thankfully this doesn't happen too often.
It really would be a pain if I had to test each resistor and capacitor for value before I insert it in a pcb.

Toroid

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I got a toroid made from a local vendor. It's a 450 VA toroid.

I am a bit worried as the toroid is not fully flat across the edges, it bulges out. All the toroids that i have seen have a near flat edge profile.

Here are the images:

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Is there something to worry about ?

6AX4 Current handling

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Hi,

I’m trying to understand current ratings in damper diodes. 5AR4 has a really detailed explanation on the data sheet in full wave for both cap and choke input filters. Dampers do not. The tube Data shows 165ma per tube/plate for the 6AX4. Thomas states that a quad in FWB will handle 300mA. I was looking at doing a hybrid with two 1N4007 and two 6AX4 diodes. Will this still give me roughly 300mA current delivery?

VinylSavor: Tube of the Month: The 6AX4
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