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12V Bass Horn

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Hi



I have some questions if people can help. I am looking at folding layouts for horns to be used in 12v system.



They are to be stacked in V-shape like in picture, but im not sure about current folding, there is wasted space. Can anyone think of any better layout for folding?



Thanks


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Xtant 2200i info needed

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Hello, I have some Xtant 2200i amplifiers that I would like to refurbish back to factory specs or better if possible. I have been unsuccessful at finding any information for these amplifiers. Schematics, values... anything. Not to mention, these are way above my knowledge. Since these are my personal amplifiers I was going to try to learn and refurbish as I could. I see now, that is going be extremely difficult without any resources for schematics or information. With that being said, im going to swallow my pride and send these to a qualified person. can anyone recommend a person knowledgeable on these Xtant 2200i amps? Thanks.

FAST (WAW) build help and opinions

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Hello again audio friends,

I was recently gifted with a pair each of MarkAudio Alpair 6m Gen2 and Dayton RS225-8 and would like to build a set of FAST (WAW if you will) 2-way floorstanders.

Before you ask, I don't have the equipment to take direct measurements myself, so I have been designing the crossover based on the manufacturer graphs. I have included .frd and .zma files I have been working with. Dayton has actual files from partexpress and I used a tracer program for the Alpairs.

I want the front baffle to be 10 inches wide which would be a baffle step at around 450 Hz. As such, I figured that would be a good crossover point. I have been playing around in WinPCD. I tried to do first order on both, but I didn't like how the response looked. So I tried first order on the woofer + zobel and second order on the Alpair (with polarity reversed) and think they look better.
Woofer: 4mH coil, zobel 20uF + 10ohm. Tweeter: 35uF + 2mH.

That said, and I'm sure you could tell, I don't really know what I am doing and would greatly appreciate any recommendations on the design.

Also, if there is anything else you need to know, please don't hesitate to ask.

Thanks so much!

Yamaha RX -V 2095. No bal control.

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Is there a factory reset on this unit. I have no balance control. Thanks for alny replies

SoundStream Rubicon NANO MR1.2000D audio driver board

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Does anyone has any schematic or can identify part numbers for this audio driverboard R215, R216 and what is likely to fail or what is suggested to be replace?
The amplifier is in protection, output fets weren’t damage.

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Trying to repair a Smoked Vox AC15 amplifier

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Hi guys my first post here:
Recently I got a VOX AC15 tube amplifier which was smoked and I wrote about in the following link.
Error | All About Circuits

Just a summary of what happened.
After removing the pcb I discovered that R72 was completely fried and there was visible blackening between terminal TT5 and TT7 and a conductive path was formed between the two terminals. There was a trace inbetween the terminals which was connected to the ground pour which showed signs of pitting.

What I did
I removed all the blackened pcb bits between the terminals and completely cleaned it and I filled the gap with epoxy. There was no conductivity between the terminals. I also removed the copper trace between the terminals as I couldn't understand any reason for it to be there. I replaced the blown resistor and also the HT fuse (250mA). Got fresh new tubes.

What happened
I used a 100W bulb in series to power up the amp with an 8ohm dummy load connected. I started with no tubes and then continued adding tubes one by one starting from the pre amp tubes. Each time powering down the amp and powering it up again. There were no shorts, as the light bulb remained dimmly lit. The voltage measurements taken from different points also seemed to be in check. However after a little while the light bulb seemed to go just 'slightly' bright I assumed that's because with all the tubes in and with the normal temperature that should happen.
So with no smoke or apparent short I powered it up from the mains and connected the speaker. Straight away there was a hum at about 100Hz (mains frequency here is 50Hz), turning the volume pot had no effect on the hum so I assumed bad filter caps. I injected a tone to the input and the output was amplified.
After maybe a minute or so I saw a wisp of smoke coming from the TT7 terminal area, I quickly turned off the amp. The resistors R72 and R73 was boiling hot.

What I discovered afterwards.
There were some black coloration near the TT7 terminal. I thought it might have been left from before, so just to make sure I dig out the epoxy and used a dremel to remove slightest bit of black bits. In the process of removing the pcb I noticed that connecting point to chassis ground SG1 had a high resistance reading measured with other grounding points and also it looked very tarnished so I used sand paper to clean out that point on the chassis which gave a low resistance reading to other ground points.
Since the Pcb was out I checked all the filter caps and everything seemed ok :S. I checked other components and nothing seemed out of place.
Without filling the gap between TT7 and TT5 I soldered back all the connection and powered up the amp following the procedure as before, this time I was measuring the current draw from the supply as well. This time I didn't see the slight increase in bulb brightness and it was lightly glowing all the while, and then I tried powering from the mains with the speaker connected. Current draw was about 200mA there was no smoke but the hum was still there. With a signal applied the current draw didn't vary much from the 200mA mark. I didn't want to run the amp too long with the hum so I turned it off and checked the temperature of R72 and R73 which was slightly warm to touch which I believe is normal right?
I am hoping that the smoking issue is fixed with the proper ground connection. Could it have been the culprit? Because the owner of the amp said that he saw some sparking and heard something like gunshots from the speaker before it start smoking before bringing it to me.
Now my biggest concern is the hum - the filter caps checks out ok on the multi meter removed from the circuit. However on the ESR meter I got some erroneous value, either way I have ordered new caps and waiting for them to arrive. What I worry about is since I removed the copper trace between TT5 and TT7 which was connected to the ground pour is causing the hum due to parasitic capacitance or something? I'm going to fill in the gap again with epoxy once I am soldering on the new caps.
I was hoping that you could shed some light on this matter and point me to somethings to look for
Thanks so much for the help in advance.
P.S I have included some photos and the schematic. In the photo named "Closeup Marked" I have marked the copper trace bit which I have removed, the think trace at the bottom is left intact.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg Before.JPG (709.5 KB)
File Type: jpg Filled with epoxy.JPG (105.1 KB)
File Type: jpg How it is now.JPG (92.4 KB)
File Type: jpg Vox Schematic cropped.jpg (106.7 KB)
File Type: jpg Closeup Marked.jpg (88.7 KB)

Component quality and sourcing for a SMPS

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Here's a thing: I'm currently modding a Playstation PS1 for audio cd. So far I've modded the signal path and it sounds amazing. Now to start on the Switch mode PSU. I dont want to go down the linear route just yet.
All the sites I've been following re modding the PSU are German and recommend Elko caps. These are dear in UK as I can only find ones to import. What are good UK equivalents that don't cost an arm and a leg? In fact, how important is the quality of component in the PSU.? If the diodes are fast and the caps are smoothing does the name matter too much?

Strange in car voltage measurements

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Hi all,

I have experienced an odd thing today whilst measuring voltage drop in my wiring system.

I measured a voltage drop of around 200mv from battery terminal to amplifier terminal playing a 50hz sine wave through the system at something approaching full output. The total current draw I estimate to be 120 amps and so this is good.

Out of curiosity and to measure the battery/alternator systemic voltage drop at full power I put the probes of the voltmeter on the the postive and negative distribution blocks and cranked up the test tone.

To my surprise I measured ~6.5 volts DC.

Wondering if the power draw of the sinusoidal test tone was making the meter think it was measuring AC I switched it over and read ~7 volts AC.

These are impossible numbers, the amps would turn themselves off at 6.5v DC, can anyone explain what is going here please?

Is it just a limitation of the meter and if so how would I measure voltage at full power out?

The best freeware software for XO in box

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Hello can you please point me to a good freeware software to model the Xo for two ways drivers (knowing the thiele small parameters) each in a different box (can be bass reflex or sealed). Tks

Xtant 3300c - C81

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Hello,

Its been a while. Working on a Xtant 3300c. Noticed that C81 is missing. Does anyone know what the value of this capacitor is?

Thanks!Click the image to open in full size.

Amplifier L10

Favourite mids/high amplifier?

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This is more of a conversational thread than the majority on this sub forum and I hope that it is appropriate and even perhaps entertaining for a few of us.

My favourite mids/high amplifier, having had a few through my hand and heard a few more, is a bit of a left field choice.

I recently picked up a four channel Sony XM 3040f for 20 quid as a parts or repair job and it turned out not only to work but to sound fantastic.

It really does compare to my vintage Genesis, Soundstream and Audison stuff in terms of quality. The highs are smooth and fully developed, no trace of hardness but completely revealing. The mid range and upper bass, I run a four way system for preference, is similarly full, smooth and punchy. From silkily presenting female voices to rendering an orchestral bloom, to replicating a drum kit and musically distorted guitar and isolating the individual notes of instrumental music this amp does it all at reasonable volumes.

It’s rated at 30w at 0.05% THD but feels much more powerful, a lovely quality in an amp.

I have to confess to also love it’s gun metal grey looks, all ridged heatsink and industrial design. Much better than the tarts handbags that were the later Sony Xplode line.

I think what makes it my favourite is hat it is sonically and electronically top notch whilst stopping short of esoterica.

For balance I should mention that it has fixed HP/LP filters at 80hz that give a small but noticeable reduction in sound quality. Not a problem if you run a separate crossover but I felt I should mention it.

What do you guys like and why?

B&C SPE21 8" mid question

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Hi all was wondering if anyone might have the FRD & ZMA files for the SPE21. Parts express is out of the DAT V2 and the new DATS V3 is not in stock until November and i just can't wait that long if anyone has those files i will pay to get them. Also is anyone in the Tampa Florida area that can measure the speakers for me i will gladly pay you for your help. thank you

Revolution and Romance

JL audio 500/1

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i have a 500/1 pcb 100006 rev 11 it had a trashed power supply i replaced all 8 transistors with genuine irfz44n and 8 1% 47 ohm 1/2 watt resistors it powers up then starts t draw a lot f current my current limiting ps keeps anything from burning the transformer gets hot and only a couple of the power transistors gets warm the output section transistors test ok i have a replacement transformer out of a donor board but not sure if i should if there is something im missing

Fostex Full range - any interest?

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Hi, I have a number of speakers left over that were never used many years back for projects that never got going and I don't think will get going until I have a bigger home- so not for the next 10 years!

I'm wanting to sell but wondered if people are still using the below speakers anymore?
  • Used (but not for a very long time) - Fostex FE208E Sigma
  • Used - Fostex FE206e
  • New in box - Fostex FE166e

Would these sell now?

Help with FRD & ZMA files

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Hi all was wondering if anyone might have the FRD & ZMA files for the SPE21. Parts express is out of the DAT V2 and the new DATS V3 is not in stock until November and i just can't wait that long if anyone has those files i will pay to get them. Also is anyone in the Tampa Florida area that can measure the speakers for me i will gladly pay you for your help. thank you

The birth of a 15 inch woofer

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I have worked for a while on designing drivers now and I wanted to make something I would really love to have in my own system. After a bit of considerations, I found out that the basic requirements should be as follows:

- T/S-parameters that fits a 150 liter vented box with 24Hz tuning.
- X-max (real x-max) in the 10-12mm range.
- 15 inch paper cone and paper dustcap with F0-1000Hz operating range.
- Roll off that fits a typical room response (-3dB @ 50-60Hz and -6dB @ 30-35Hz).

So we ended up with a set of parameters that looks quite interesting. A buddy of mine tested them and commented that they gave the same sensitivity and response as the TAD TL1601b in the same box. So even though the parameters are slightly different, it will basically deliver the same frequency response as the TAD, and therefore could work as a replacement for it.

Here are the parameters for those who are interested:

Click the image to open in full size.

Note the Re of 31,7 ohms. Yes, that is in fact not a typo. This unit has a double gap and double coil design, and the two coils are connected to separate terminals. Connected in parallell, they produce just shy of 8 ohms. In series, well, you can have the coils in parallell and run 8 in parallell on a typical amp.

Inductor Loaded De-Lite

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Hi guys, quick question for you. Maybe I'm on to something, or maybe I'm way off base.

Could the 300 watt light bulb power resistor in the De-Lite circuit be replaced by a high current inductor, such as the Hammond 193V (150mH, 1 ohm, 3A max DC). Would such a change require a complete redesign of the circuit? Would it be easier to start from scratch? I'm assuming at the very least the power supply voltage would be lower, since the inductor can store so much energy. Can the inductance of the inductor make up for the loss of load resistance the light bulb supplied?

Since completing my ACA, I've been looking at solid state designs using some iron in the amplifier circuit, like the Nemesis, FAOW #2, and MoFo. For one reason or another, they don't quite satisfy my requirements. I like the De-Lite circuit, ruthlessly simple with no NFB. The added efficiency of an inductor makes the circuit more attractive. I tried doing a simulation of my circuit idea, but didn't get very far. I also don't know which version of the De-Lite would be best suited to this modification, I was thinking the De-Luxe circuit.

If this is a completely silly idea, please say so! If not, I'd love to to hear your guys' thoughts!

Pioneer GMD8601

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Hi everyone.

I have 2 pioneers gmd8601 with ps blown. I replace the driver section, 2 2gm and 2 1gm transistor, i have 4.5v on all gates. The problem is when i take off the remote, just like power off the headunit, the ps blown.

I take off the rectifiers, same problem. On one amp i replace tl494, same problem. Test with another mosfets, irfz48, 50n06, etc and the same thing. The amp can power up and sound, but if you power off by the remote bum, ps blown.

When the remote is take off i have 0v on the gates, when turn on rises slow up to 4.15v. 0v between both banks gates. I dont have scope at the time.
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