In-kind shooting ! No power ,no working. no other accessories.
Bird SA-6000EX Site Analyzer For Parts or Repair
Bird SA-6000EX Site Analyzer For Parts or Repair
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FS:Bird SA-6000EX Site Analyzer For Parts or Repair
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4066 operation
Hello,
I am posting to ask a simple question about the common analog switch 4066.
Can the power supply (and the control signals) to this IC be completely isolated from the analog path that will be injected into the switch I/O? No ground connection between them. In other words, can it be used as a "relay" where the "coil" circuit (IC power supply) has nothing to do with the switching path.
I am posting to ask a simple question about the common analog switch 4066.
Can the power supply (and the control signals) to this IC be completely isolated from the analog path that will be injected into the switch I/O? No ground connection between them. In other words, can it be used as a "relay" where the "coil" circuit (IC power supply) has nothing to do with the switching path.
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Rebuilt speaker panel Leak 2060
I would like to build a protection panel for two Leak 2060. I received these speakers without a protector panel and its clothing. Which material I should choose ? Plywood, polymer or carton board? The panel will fit in an aluminum section, I will keep it in place with velcro.
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Need help determining type of Audiostatics
I have bought a set of Audiostatic loudspeakers that have no serial numbers. According to the seller, who inherited these from a family member, they where bought directly from Audiostatic in 2008.
They sound very good and with no loss in efficiency. In comparison to the ES 100s I have, they have more detail and bass.
This morning I opened them up to look at the electronics. Please see attached photos.
My guess is that these are DCM 5 speakers, based on the fact that I count 5 transformers (4 big, 1 small for low frequency boost).
Can anyone confirm my assumption or tell me what model/type these speakers are? What could be the reason for not having serial numbers?
They sound very good and with no loss in efficiency. In comparison to the ES 100s I have, they have more detail and bass.
This morning I opened them up to look at the electronics. Please see attached photos.
My guess is that these are DCM 5 speakers, based on the fact that I count 5 transformers (4 big, 1 small for low frequency boost).
Can anyone confirm my assumption or tell me what model/type these speakers are? What could be the reason for not having serial numbers?
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Rockville amp output inductors damage
I worked on a Rockville amp yesterday and found that both of the output inductors were cooked. I havent found any other damaged components in the amp. It looks like a very new amp, less than a year old.
I know that vibration damage is a major factor for these inductors to fail, but Im not sure that vibration caused this failure. What else could cause the output inductors to cook.
David
I know that vibration damage is a major factor for these inductors to fail, but Im not sure that vibration caused this failure. What else could cause the output inductors to cook.
David
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Dayton Audio RSS390HF-4 15" (first) build - would like to get some feedback on WinISD
Currently, I am designing my first sealed subwoofer which I would like to use in my living room for both music and HT. I am still unsure if I will manufacture one or two; I am leaning more towards two eventually. I do like the symmetrical look.
After a lot of reading on this forum; I decided to use the following driver: Dayton Audio RSS390HF-4 15". I used WinISD to simulate the response and Siemens NX to design the enclosure.
I designed two enclosures:
1) 81,55 liter - 0,815 Qtc (red line and signal set to 375W)
2) 132,93 liter - 0,703 Qtc (blue line and signal set to 200W).
Dayton Audio recommends 81,55 liter for a sealed enclosure.
1) How does the graphs look to the more experienced WinISD users?
2) Many people tend to recommend internal volumes of 5 cubic feet ~ 142 liter; why is this better? The smaller enclosure has higher SPL on every frequency.
3) Is it allowed to exceed the cone excursion limit at lower frequencies (c.q. 10 to 15 Hz?).
After a lot of reading on this forum; I decided to use the following driver: Dayton Audio RSS390HF-4 15". I used WinISD to simulate the response and Siemens NX to design the enclosure.
I designed two enclosures:
1) 81,55 liter - 0,815 Qtc (red line and signal set to 375W)
2) 132,93 liter - 0,703 Qtc (blue line and signal set to 200W).
Dayton Audio recommends 81,55 liter for a sealed enclosure.
1) How does the graphs look to the more experienced WinISD users?
2) Many people tend to recommend internal volumes of 5 cubic feet ~ 142 liter; why is this better? The smaller enclosure has higher SPL on every frequency.
3) Is it allowed to exceed the cone excursion limit at lower frequencies (c.q. 10 to 15 Hz?).
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Calculating values for a capacitance multiplier
Hi!
First off, I am a bit of a novice when it comes to building power supplies, and my research area is definitely not in audio. I have a specification to get a very low output voltage ripple on a high voltage power supply and have stumbled across the use of a capacitor multiplier to do this. I am not even sure if these circuits would be applicable at high voltages, but the student in me is intrigued about how the circuits are obtained and I'd like to do some simulations to understand their working, and see if they are applicable.
While doing some research online I see a lot of recommended circuits, which use a large array of different capacitor configurations and values, with no explanation on how these values were reached considering the output voltage, input voltage, frequency of the supply, etc. Is there any such guide for this online, or can someone give me some general hinters?
Thanks!
J :D
First off, I am a bit of a novice when it comes to building power supplies, and my research area is definitely not in audio. I have a specification to get a very low output voltage ripple on a high voltage power supply and have stumbled across the use of a capacitor multiplier to do this. I am not even sure if these circuits would be applicable at high voltages, but the student in me is intrigued about how the circuits are obtained and I'd like to do some simulations to understand their working, and see if they are applicable.
While doing some research online I see a lot of recommended circuits, which use a large array of different capacitor configurations and values, with no explanation on how these values were reached considering the output voltage, input voltage, frequency of the supply, etc. Is there any such guide for this online, or can someone give me some general hinters?
Thanks!
J :D
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What to turn KEF Concerto in to?
I've got a full set of speakers from Kef Concerto I've build years ego but eventually got rid of the boxes due to space. So I wonder what else I could build out of these speakers that would be much smaller but still sound great. I think the woofers need certain size of a box to sound right but I'm not really sure, it's been a while. Any tips?
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Holton Audio HPA NXV200L R4 Amp modules
New and unused Holton Audio Modules. Still in new condition.
Exicon lateral mosfets
150 Watts RMS continuous sine wave into 8 Ω
260 Watts RMS continuous sine wave into 4 Ω
The HPA-NXL200 R4 is 2 Ω Stable for musical transients
Biased into Class A/B
Frequency Response 3.5hz to 300khz -3dB
Dampening Factor At 100hz 8Ω = 800
RCA Single ended Input impedance 33kΩ
Single Ended Input Gain = 30.6dB
Specs for these are here;
HPA-NXL200 R4.2 - Advanced Version Amplifier – Holton Precision Audio
Looking for £150 GBP for both modules plus shipping, will send worldwide via tracked delivery only
Exicon lateral mosfets
150 Watts RMS continuous sine wave into 8 Ω
260 Watts RMS continuous sine wave into 4 Ω
The HPA-NXL200 R4 is 2 Ω Stable for musical transients
Biased into Class A/B
Frequency Response 3.5hz to 300khz -3dB
Dampening Factor At 100hz 8Ω = 800
RCA Single ended Input impedance 33kΩ
Single Ended Input Gain = 30.6dB
Specs for these are here;
HPA-NXL200 R4.2 - Advanced Version Amplifier – Holton Precision Audio
Looking for £150 GBP for both modules plus shipping, will send worldwide via tracked delivery only
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A 32Hz tuned TH for a dub soundsystem
I don't know if you know that music scene, but in dub and rootsdub parties are organised with big stacks of boxes tuned very low (32Hz is the goal) and bassheavy. They use 4 scoop horns (backloaded horns) with 18" drivers for the sub in a 3 till 5 way config and almost everything is custom handbuild, often by the dj crew themselves (see picture for the stack of Dub Stuy (NYC) for an example). A single stack is mostly 12-16kW and medium throw, wich is perfect for parties from 100 to 5000ppl (if you put a few stacks in the space). But for a small bar or party space (50-100ppl) this is way to powerfull, big and annoying for the neighbours because ofthe medium throw of the subs.
I know a lot of people in that scene here in Belgium and with some of them we discussed to make a smaller stack for bar gigs. I think a tapped horn would be best for this, but i can't find a fit design for this (also because my hornresp skill are very minimal, i'm a winisd guy for designing). The size may not be too big (the size of a standard scoop would be perfect) so an otthorn is out of the question. And other designs that are smaller that i see are tuned to high (35 till 40Hz). Is this possible to make a TH of arround 100dB on 1w/1m tuned to 32Hz or lower, about 800-1500w of power and of the size of a standard scoop (65cm wide, 120cm high and 80cm deep). Are there existing designs that are free to use (or cheap) and fit this conditions? And this preferable with a driver (or drivers) of less than 500 for each box.
I could easely make a vented box (with more power to get the same spl), but i would prefer a TH for this (and many dubheads with me) because of the low frequency respone and efficiency.
I know a lot of people in that scene here in Belgium and with some of them we discussed to make a smaller stack for bar gigs. I think a tapped horn would be best for this, but i can't find a fit design for this (also because my hornresp skill are very minimal, i'm a winisd guy for designing). The size may not be too big (the size of a standard scoop would be perfect) so an otthorn is out of the question. And other designs that are smaller that i see are tuned to high (35 till 40Hz). Is this possible to make a TH of arround 100dB on 1w/1m tuned to 32Hz or lower, about 800-1500w of power and of the size of a standard scoop (65cm wide, 120cm high and 80cm deep). Are there existing designs that are free to use (or cheap) and fit this conditions? And this preferable with a driver (or drivers) of less than 500 for each box.
I could easely make a vented box (with more power to get the same spl), but i would prefer a TH for this (and many dubheads with me) because of the low frequency respone and efficiency.
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Alpair 10.3 FAST guidance needed
I'm looking to build an Alpair 10.3 FAST floorstander pair and need some guidance.
Original plan was to build Pensils but I realized that my placement close to wall & corner may be problematic for lower end.
![Click the image to open in full size.]()
So I built simple sealed boxes for the Alpair and they already go down to almost 30hz, especially the corner side. To be able to adjust the lower end the plan is to build separate sub parts, to replace the 1 sub I already have.
Size would be around 900x210x330mm for sub parts, 18mm plywood, 40l with tuning around 29hz resulting in F6 around 25hz. Woofer on the side with vent facing back.
Amp Monacor 300d, woofer GZIW 250X
Top part sealed for 10.3 would be around 210x210x330mm with 18mm plywood, around 7l with F6 around 80hz.
![Click the image to open in full size.]()
Questions:
Any major issues that I'm missing?
What is a good crossover range, around 100-200hz? I will use active crossover from plate amp/main amp
How should I place the woofers, facing outside or inside, or even same direction?
How should I connect them, subs in RCA mono from main amp or speaker level per side to both top&bottom parts?
I have a measuring kit coming so I can do basic measuring if needed. Main amp is Denon x1400 so I can use it for some EQ for the subs.
Original plan was to build Pensils but I realized that my placement close to wall & corner may be problematic for lower end.
So I built simple sealed boxes for the Alpair and they already go down to almost 30hz, especially the corner side. To be able to adjust the lower end the plan is to build separate sub parts, to replace the 1 sub I already have.
Size would be around 900x210x330mm for sub parts, 18mm plywood, 40l with tuning around 29hz resulting in F6 around 25hz. Woofer on the side with vent facing back.
Amp Monacor 300d, woofer GZIW 250X
Top part sealed for 10.3 would be around 210x210x330mm with 18mm plywood, around 7l with F6 around 80hz.
Questions:
Any major issues that I'm missing?
What is a good crossover range, around 100-200hz? I will use active crossover from plate amp/main amp
How should I place the woofers, facing outside or inside, or even same direction?
How should I connect them, subs in RCA mono from main amp or speaker level per side to both top&bottom parts?
I have a measuring kit coming so I can do basic measuring if needed. Main amp is Denon x1400 so I can use it for some EQ for the subs.
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WTB icepower1200AS2
Looking to pick up a couple IcePower 1200AS2 modules.
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2SB649A real and equivalents?
Why do transistors seem to come and go so quickly? Is there really a need for manufacturers to change them and retire them so quickly?
I need a 2SB649A. I understand that virtually all of these on ebay etc are fake and I can't find one at RS or Farnell or Mouser etc (I live in the UK). I have seen people glow all warm and bubbly about Cricklewood Electronics. First they told me they had real ones from Hitachi. Then when I questioned them on how they could be new when they hadn't been made for a decade they told me they cannot guarantee their 2SB649A's are real. All they could say is they had not recieved any complaints. Say no more. No sale. Now the NTE374 looks like an exact copy, but again problems.. Farnell and RS make this a special item whereby you have to pay an extra £10-16 even if you only want 1.You can get the odd NTE374 on ebay but are NTE's faked?
This is for my NAD C370 that has bit the dust. And I am a newbie to diy and repair, though I have an engineering degree so I should pick up things quickly. Though I expect what will actually happen is no-one will respond to this post. Cos I aint cool and flashy and making my own amps.. yet:(
I need a 2SB649A. I understand that virtually all of these on ebay etc are fake and I can't find one at RS or Farnell or Mouser etc (I live in the UK). I have seen people glow all warm and bubbly about Cricklewood Electronics. First they told me they had real ones from Hitachi. Then when I questioned them on how they could be new when they hadn't been made for a decade they told me they cannot guarantee their 2SB649A's are real. All they could say is they had not recieved any complaints. Say no more. No sale. Now the NTE374 looks like an exact copy, but again problems.. Farnell and RS make this a special item whereby you have to pay an extra £10-16 even if you only want 1.You can get the odd NTE374 on ebay but are NTE's faked?
This is for my NAD C370 that has bit the dust. And I am a newbie to diy and repair, though I have an engineering degree so I should pick up things quickly. Though I expect what will actually happen is no-one will respond to this post. Cos I aint cool and flashy and making my own amps.. yet:(
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Alpair 10.3 dual help.
Hello.
I have made a pair of pencils with the alpair 10p, and i
love them.
Now i have bought 2 pairs of alpair 10.3m, and i wonder
if there is any good encloseures with dual elements in
them? or a good encloseure that goes lower than the pencil.
Room is about 27m2.
I have looked around on the Internet, but have not found any with dual alpair 10.
Sorry for my english 😊
Best regards.
Paul
I have made a pair of pencils with the alpair 10p, and i
love them.
Now i have bought 2 pairs of alpair 10.3m, and i wonder
if there is any good encloseures with dual elements in
them? or a good encloseure that goes lower than the pencil.
Room is about 27m2.
I have looked around on the Internet, but have not found any with dual alpair 10.
Sorry for my english 😊
Best regards.
Paul
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Psvane Cv181 Tii in Icon Audio Amplifier
Anyone tried this tube with an Icon Audio amplifier ?
If so did you experience any problems?
Thanks in advance.
If so did you experience any problems?
Thanks in advance.
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Cathode Circuit
Working on this Bendix radio and noticed this 6V6 cathode circuit. Is this a form of feedback? Would it be better to directly ground the cathode resistor/capacitor? I had to replace the existing output transformer (not original) with another. I'm sure the specs aren't exactly like the original and the cathode circuit probably won't operate exactly as intended. It does play now and seems okay with the cathode wired this way. I apologize if this has been covered elsewhere.
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FS: Hashimoto H-30-5S, Coleman's DHT Heater, NHB-108 Clone, AT-cut crystals
Hi, I have for sale:
1. Hashimoto H-30-5S output transformer pair. Never used. USD780 plus shipping.
2. Coleman's DHT heater. Each stereo set has two regulators and two raw power supplies (PCB and components except the capacitors for raw supplies). Partially populated. USD70 shipped for two stereo sets.
3. NHB-108 clone. Only a few month old. Great sounding. 230V primary. USD330 plus shipping.
4. Laptech AT-cut crystal pair of 90.3168mHZ and 98.304mHZ 5th overtone. From Andrea's group-buy. One was removed from PCB that Andrea soldered but practically never used. USD65 shipped for the pair.
I will cover paypal fees.
Thanks.
W. Yan
1. Hashimoto H-30-5S output transformer pair. Never used. USD780 plus shipping.
2. Coleman's DHT heater. Each stereo set has two regulators and two raw power supplies (PCB and components except the capacitors for raw supplies). Partially populated. USD70 shipped for two stereo sets.
3. NHB-108 clone. Only a few month old. Great sounding. 230V primary. USD330 plus shipping.
4. Laptech AT-cut crystal pair of 90.3168mHZ and 98.304mHZ 5th overtone. From Andrea's group-buy. One was removed from PCB that Andrea soldered but practically never used. USD65 shipped for the pair.
I will cover paypal fees.
Thanks.
W. Yan
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Klipsch KSF 8.5
Well I toasted a pair of woofers in my KSF 8.5s. Speakers are discontinued,? Where might I find some replacements? Bandwidth 36hz to 20khz, sensitivity of 94 dB. Crossover of 2.2khz , 8 ohm. Is improving to a better woofer my plan or do I trash these and find a nice 3 way speaker somewhere? Any and all help , thanks for your time
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Parasound HCA-1200 Series 1 advice needed
Greeting, A Series 1 HCA-1200 has come up locally for sale. I've been unable to locate the service data or pretty much any data. Other than what is here on DIY which definitely helps. Oddly model is not listed under the discontinued listing at the Parasound site. I did find some data on the Series II but I'm unsure what the difference is between the two. So is this a good choice for driving a pair of subs? I would think that with a bipolar output, fairly high damping, and a high current capacity that it just might be ideal. And even worth the effort to restore if needed. Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
DD
Thanks in advance,
DD
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FS: F5 amp
It's a first watt F5 amp that I built myself.
Serious inquiries only, pick up only in the GTA.
![Click the image to open in full size.]()
Serious inquiries only, pick up only in the GTA.
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