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Big, Old, Sprague and Mallory Electrolytics

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Cleaning out the parts bin of stuff I will nnever get to using.

4 big electrolytics:
21,000uF at 50V (two of these)
12,000uF at 20V
54,000uF at 20V

These are old, so probably best to start them up gently the first time you use them (slowly raising Voltage and limiting current inrush with a resistor)

$10 plus shipping (from 02067)

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Tang Band W6-2144 vs W8-2145 for Onken enclosure

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I'm intrigued by hopefully building some speakers with 'Onken' style enclosures)(I'm currently leaning towards 'classic Onken' rather than the Planet10 alternate 'Fonken' -although I have the highest regard for Dave and his work).

I'd be open to either Multi-way or Full-range, but with a definite gladness to go full range if I find suitable drivers within my reach. And I think I have found two potentially-excellent candidate drivers for this: the Tang Band W6-2144 or W8-2145.

I've been using the 'Onken calculator' at HiFi Loudspeaker Design

The W6-2144 looks like it performs very, very nearly as well at lower frequencies as the W8, and the W6 manages to do so in a much more modestly sized enclosure. PDFs of calculations (from the above-mentioned onken calculator website) attached. The results I am getting from the online 'onken calculator' show the W6 an f3 of 33.8hz in a 60.8 liter enclosure vs the W8 with 32.5hz in a 100.7 liter enclosure.

Difference in price between the drivers $91.10 for the W6 vs $96.90 for the W9 is practically a rounding error, so prices of the drivers aren't a reason for me to lean towards one vs. the other.

My questions:

1) Can I reasonably rely on this online 'onken calculator?'

2) I don't yet have real depth of understanding (at least not nearly what I'd like) of how the multiple characteristics of drivers interact with different size and configuration enclosures - so- am I missing the boat here somewhere in what the calculator is telling me, both in relation to:
a) overall results?
b) the relative lack of benefit of going with the W8 in a bigger enclosure compared to the W6 in a more modest-sized enclosure?
3) Aside from "graphed frequency response" and a slight gain in db per watt efficiency in the W8 over the W6, is there any other reason I should consider going with the W8 over the W6?

4) similar to "3" but more narrow: if I use a single-ended triode tube amplifier with no negative feedback, would the W8 in a large enclosure present a better load and match to the amp than the W6 in a smaller enclosure?

I realized that I stacked a lot of 'ask' into this question, so thanks for plowing through it. and I appreciate and look forward to input. Thanks in advance!

Hafler DH220 Case

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New. Never used, but a few minor marks from storage.

$25 plus shipping (from 02067)

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Remote controlled pot suggestions?

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Hey guys,
I'm looking for suggestions for good quality remote controlled potentiometer setup.
I'd be interested in a kit, or even tutorial on how to set up individual components like a motorized pot circuit board and remote.

What have you guys used and are happy with?

Mini Speaker Boxes + Vifa D26NC-15 Tweeters

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Small (about 4" x 8" x 6"deep) boxes made for M&K (one pair). Clearly these were CNC made. There is routing for a Vifa D26NC tweeter and a Peerless TC9 or TG9 3.5" driver. Both sides and back have another set of holes for an unknown passive radiator. Could make for a rather nice mini-speaker. I was going to seal up the boxes with 1/4" pannel and mount a small class D stereo amp inside and go active. But yet another project that never happened...

I want to include the D26 tweeters with the boxes as they are made for each other. Both boxes and tweeters are new, but a wee bit dusty from storage.

$50 for the lot plus shipping (from 02067)

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Dayton PT2 Planar Tweeters

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And yet another project that has never (and will never) happened....

One pair. New, in the box. The terminals have never been soldered-to or had quick-connects on them.

$50 for the pair (half price of new) plus shipping (from 02067).

I have another pair of similar tweeters but labled "Stryke" if the buyer is interested.

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Pannel Meters

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Set of 3. Two triplet and one Simpson. The Simpson is HUGE (~4"). The Triplets are in boxes, apparently never used. The Triplet on the upper right says "0 to 50mA" on the face, but the box reads 0 to 5mA. I don't know which one is correct.

$25 for the lot plus shipping (from 02067)

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Sugden Audition T light hum

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I have a Sugden Audition T, a model without tone control, the board is written on Optima 80. There is a light hum after I play music, hum occurred when there is not a signal. But if I turn on and I don't listen to music there is no hum.
In which direction I should direct my inquiry?

Regards,

Jean

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High Voltage Foil Caps

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I have a large quantity (>100) of Hunts foil capacitors. They are all 0.033uF. Some are 400V and some are 600V. They are both the same size. They are NOS (probably quite old). Make me a reasonble offer and they are yours.

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Ton McNally?? Help!!

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Hello, I bought a used Tom McNally built amp on A'Gon some years back it has been in and out of use, but want to stick with it now as my primary amp. I Really love it, but the right channel started intermittently cutting out with the 6550 on that side going MIA as well as far as lighting up etc. I have tried numerous times in the last 6 months or so to his email address showing on his site with no answer. Does anyone know how he may be reached? or... can anyone recommend a reasonably priced qualified repair person who may be willing to check it out for me? I live in rural SW Oregon and there is no one arounbd here seemingly and there is one fellow 3 hours away in Eugene who is a guitar amp specialist who may be able to help and I believe an audio shop or so 5+ hours away in Portland. Of course my first preference would be Tom who built it but perhaps retired or has another email now? Any and all thought on this would be most appreciated! Thank you! Let's see if the link to the original sale will post here....
Tom McNally -Wonderful 6550 tube SET amp - 8 watts per channel | Tube | Audiogon

Need help isolating noise in tape recorder preamp

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Hi all,

I have a tape machine that I suspect has a noisy sel-sync preamp. What sounds like white noise is happening when I engage the sync function on the transport.

(Sel-sync allows the record head to act as a play head.)

The machine is an Ampex ATR104. I've eliminated the possibility of the head, firstly because it happens without any transport function (i.e., tape is stopped) and secondly, I swapped out the channel's cards for another and the problem is following the card. Card in question is the Main Audio

How would I go troubleshooting this circuit? I was hoping to signal trace to find the noise. However, the signal is noisy starting right at the input and the way through the output of the preamp.

Any advice/tips?

Some links to give some hints:

Schematic (pdf page: 34, manual page: 6-43/44)

Theory of Operation (pdf page: 52, manual page: 4-48)

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Best,
Chris

Anyone using partial or full IPAL solution?

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Hey comunity.
I'm thinking about that, for compact universal bass solution. Not sure about certain technical details. I would guess only actual users could tell. Anybody around? Thank you in advance:
Pressure probe usage for two speakers in two bins, safety if one speaker goes unconnected, speaker design and so on...

SJEP120R063

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Hi to members, I have for sale 10 units, Semisouths, interested by PM please. Ship from Menorca, Spain.
Genuine units I got some time ago for some project without exit.
Best Regards
Esteban

Hammond 126-000050 mod to hifi(ish)

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Ok so i used my sine wave generator tested my Hammond 126-000050 (and it power supply) Out of a Hammond H100. My findings are usable output from about 25hz to 16500hz (which is about the limit of my hearing anyways

There is a pair of 7591s in push pull (Bass) and two pairs of el84s in push pull, for a total of 3 channels

I have had a few people suggest that I need to run upgraded OPT's, claiming that the stock OPT's are limited to about 6,000-7,000hz. While I agree that there is a little bit of roll off up top, I don't think that the roll off is actually in the OPT's My guess is the roll off is in the audio chain itself

The plan is to run the el84's as right and left channels, then to run 2 a pair of efficient bass drivers (still need to work that out), one in each cabinet, in parallel to reach the desired impedance

As for the Output transformers, What does everyone recommend? I could easily keep the existing power supply and run a pair of 807 or 6l6? I have plenty of them laying around

ALSA Multiroom Audio

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Hi,

I ran across an interesting article that described a simple system for distributing audio using a combination of ALSA loopback and the trx transmit/receive utility. trx: Realtime audio over IP

Trx uses the Opus codec and RTP/UDP protocol. My initial tests were unsuccessful due to the receiver module segfaulting shortly after receiving data. Here is a link to the trx sources, precompiled binaries for tx and rx and a generic test for anyone that is interested in trying to debug the segfault.
moode/other/trx at develop * moode-player/moode * GitHub

If trx can be made to work reliably then it may be possible to use it as the basis for a multiroom audio system. Something like below as a start.

Code:

  Host A
    |
    |
    MPD
    |
    |
ALSA Loopback
  |    |
  |    |
  |    +-> Local playback
  |                                    Host B - Remote playback
  +-> Tx: Opus encode -> RTP -> |    | Rx: RTP -> Opus decode -> ALSA out
                                        Host C - Remote playback
                      -> RTP -> |    | Rx: RTP -> Opus decode -> ALSA out

There are also some missing pieces.

- Volume control for remote playback
- User Interface for config and operation
- Clock sync between Sending and Receiving hosts
- Duplicating the RTP stream to multiple remote hosts

-Tim

Help Please Identifying This Transistor

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I am working on a Scott 312D Tuner.

I have found a bad transistor in the Audio Output board. The transistor is mark on the device and schematic as S1990 (Fairchild).

I have looked on the web for a replacement without luck. I cannot even find a datasheet.

I am OK at troubleshooting but lack the knowledge to make a competent choice on a replacement that might work.

Any recommendations is appreciated.

Here is the schematic. The part is identified as Q101.

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Help me Identify this tube amp

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I bought this little tube amp off eBay. I had one like this when I was a kid. I do not know the brand. The output transformer has clearly been changed so that is not original. It is very similar to a magnavox and it may actually be a magnavox but I am not sure.

It came with a 6J5 and a 6F6 tube and it appears i would have had a tube rectifier of some type 5y3/5u4 etc and 2 6F6/6V6/6L6 type output tubes in push-pull and then the 6J5 as the input/phase splitter. there is 5th socket, Octal 9-pin that much have connected to a pre-amp. it appears to have been wired for a field coil speaker which may or may not be original? there have been some changes made internally in the past as evidence by the bad soldering, melted wires and newer film type capacitors that have been added.



The power transformer is marked 94161-501 but there are no other markings on the amp anywhere.


Would like to figure out what this lil guy is. find a proper schematic.

Thanks

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small high sensitivity two way

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I know....I can have small .......or high sensitivity...


I have a few tube amps (PP and SET) ranging from 2W (Tubelab SE) to about 14W (PP triode EL34's) and I'm currently using Tang band W8-1772 full range drivers in bass reflex enclosure.



Before these I had some Fostex 207's in a half chang enclosure.


Both of the above are obviously floor-standers...



They sound quite good although I usually end up using a powered 12" sub for some bass augmentation.


..so if I'm running the sub-woofer anyway, I'd like to try some ribbons in a small enclosure; something without whizzer cones too....



I have a pair of Fountek Neo CD 3.0 ribbons that I would like to build with a small (4"-5") mid-bass or full range driver and need some suggestions...


So far I'm considering the Tang Band W5-2143 full range driver...perhaps MTM?


Tang Band W5-2143 5" Paper Cone Full Range Driver 8 Ohm


or the Audax 13LB25AL full range


https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/pdf/13LB25AL.pdf


My thoughts are run the 5" driver full range and a simple 1st order on the ribbon crossed over quite high.....


The Audax is intriguing since it's 96db sensitivity .....gives me a little headroom to burn up doing BSC, etc



Thoughts? Issues with this approach?

Question about Imgburn burning a CD from flac files

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Hello

Im new to Imgburn and trying to use it to burn some audio CD and when i about to add files to the CUE i get this message . "see below"

I have looked it up how to add Directshow filters but i am having issus getting it download/installed someone would be so kind and help me step by steps i am not a computer expert.

would be great!

Thank you

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FS: Satori MW13P-4 5" Midwoofer / Midrange Pair NIB

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FS: Satori MW13P-4 5” midrange / midwoofers (Pair)

Price: $185 shipped to the continental US.

Condition: New in Box

Photos:

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