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FS: Scanspeak D3004/6020s, SB Acoustics SB29RDNCs, and Eminence SD28 Tweeters

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1. Scanspeak D3004/6020-00 Tweeters (Pair)
2. SB Acoustics SB29RDNC-C000-4 Tweeters (Pair)
3. Eminence SD28 flangeless textile tweeters (Pair)

Prices:

1. $165 shipped to Continental US
2. SOLD
3. $30 shipped to Continental US

Condition:

1. Used in good working condition.
2. Used in good working condition.
3. NIB

Photos:

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FS: ScanSpeak 18W/8537G02 7", Peerless GBS200 slim 8", Tang Band slim W8-1853 8" NIB

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1. Thiel DRWF-053-002 (ScanSpeak 18W/8537G02 7”) 8-ohm Woofers (Pair)
2. Peerless GBS-200F35CP02-04 8" Paper Cone Woofer 4 Ohm Shallow Midbass (Pair)
3. Tang Band W8-1853 8” Midbass / Midwoofers (Pair)


Prices:

1. SOLD
2. $100 shipped
3. $180 shipped


Condition:

1. NIB
2. NIB
3. NIB


Photos:

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Building Carreras now. I have questions.

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I do not have any 3/4 birch at the time. I do have a lot of 1/2" Baltic birch, and could laminate it together, for 1" material. My question is, if the front baffle width changes, doesn't that mess up things in the engineering? The cabinets would be a half inch wider than engineered for.

UCD180 Amplifier built into base of LXMini

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I'm planning to build an LxMini and am toying with the concept of putting some UCD180 modules with the appropriate SMPS in the base of one of 'em and having an all in one solution.

I'm considering a hybrid material enclosure - external-facing aluminum where its needed to dissipate heat (thinking 2 side rails, and maybe the bottom, depending on how the SMPS module fits and grounding the SMPS), with the balance made from wood or MDF, depending on how I finish the thing.

Is there anything conceptually wrong with this? I acknowledge it's going to move the listening access of the speaker up a couple inches. that's fine with me.

I assume I'd still need XLR's, as this would be fully double-insulated, given the exposed aluminum. Is that correct? I'd really prefer RCA's, but I'll use the XLR's if I need to for safety and to avoid ground loops. Not connecting mains ground to the chassis makes me nervous...

I'd plan to wire the outputs for the 2 drivers in the speaker housing the amplifier directly, probably with spades so they can be disconnected, and I'd probably connect the other speaker with a 4-pole speakon.

Given the chassis is at least partially non-conductive, is it best to electrically connect all externally-facing conductive parts and tie that to the mains ground?

My DIY background leans more speakers (recently finished LX521's, among many other non-kit designs), but I did get on a chipamp kick 15 or so years ago and built a 5-channel LM3886-based amp and a bunch of LM1875 amps so grounding, working with mains voltage, and thermal dissipation aren't totally foreign concepts, but they are rusty. Very rusty.

I've read and re-read data sheets and application notes, working to absorb what they are telling me.

Looking forward to learning first, then getting back into the amp building hobby.

Thanks!

Proton 930 schematic

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I would be very grateful if anyone could post schematic or even better, a service manual for Proton 930 receiver.
Regards

Advice for Power Supply - Pete Millett Balanced NuTube

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I am looking for some advice, please. I need to build an appropriate power supply for Pete Millett's Balanced NuTube design.

It is likely that I will build both a line stage and headphone version. So, I'd like the power supply to support the current necessary for low impedance headphone loads. Per Pete's article, I'd prefer to run it off +/- 15V with a min current of roughly 0A200 or more per side for good measure. I'm a bit new to this. I think if I don't build it "dual mono" and use two PSUs, then I'd need a PSU that can work up to 0A400. I, like most people, seem to err on the side of more is better.

I have been experimenting with trying to model a PSU, but I am out of my depth at the moment. So, I would prefer a PSU with ready-made PCBs, a known-tested BoM, and some level of support from a forum thread and/or the designer. I don't have a lot of concerns, but many power supplies have an enormous number of rectification, snubber, and filtering choices. Board mounted transformers (similar to the WHAMMY kit) would be a plus, but I can work with a donut (or two) if the design warrants. Some designs use wall-warts or other DC supplies as the initial power source. I'm game, if they perform.

Low noise will be a priority.

Thanks in advance.

:cheers:

FS: TI TPA3255EVM

FS: Meanwell HLG-240H-48A


FS: PeeCeeBee V4 and V4H Amplifier PCB boards

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I have come to accept that I will most likely not get around to completing this particular amplifier project. I have too many projects at the moment. So I'm letting these go to a better home. :)

1. PeeCeeBee V4H PCB Boards (6x available)
2. PeeCeeBee V4 PCB Boards (6x available)

Prices:

1. $30 shipped per pair (Continental US)
2. $18 shipped per pair (Continental US)

Photo:

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Exodus Audio Parts for 5 ch Hypex UCD Amp

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Hello,

I’ve had these parts to build a Exodus Audio 5 Ch UCD 400 amp for many years. Someone needs to finish the project. This includes:
1). Hypex designed Power Supply with 2 Pairs of Panasonic Caps (5 pairs needed for 5ch operation)
2). Heat sink in blue aluminum pre drilled
3). Heat sink plate to mount Hypex UCD
4). 1KVA Transformer

To finish the amp you need 3 additional pairs of Panasonic Caps, 5 Hypex UCD 400 Amp modules, sturdy case, and soft start

Price $200 plus shipping and fees, USA only

D 4F 52173-0296-4F 25-8062-590D 03A 4FF 4A

FS: 6C33C-B

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Sale:
6С33С-В usual — 140 pcs. for $20 ea.
6C33C-B — with two bumps on the top — 30 pcs. for $20 ea.
6S33S Svetlana brand - 2 pcs. for $30 ea.
Sockets for 6S33S – 48 pcs. for $10 ea.,
Sockets for 6S33S used – 4 pcs. for $8 ea

Need help with schematics and amp IC choice.

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I have been working on a project for a long time to add a headphone + 1" speaker amp to a handheld system.

So far I have tried both LM4808 and LM4880.
Started using the typical schematic, then various other ones found online.
In all cases these just remain very very quiet although they are sucessfully used in many products without the issue.

I also tried one of them premade TDA1308 boards and it was TOO loud lol, plus sounded terrible with the 1" speaker.

Could anyone guide me on how to work the LM amps gain? or even quickly adjust the typical schematic to give the needed gain?

Iv done everything I can think of but I must be missing something.(and misunderstanding the datasheet)

Note: the speaker will be something like thisClick the image to open in full size. (Already have the ability to send mono down one channel before the amp, stereo is required)

thanks.

FS: DG300B board set + Toroidy transformer

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For sale a complete Neurochrome DG300B board set and a set of Toroidy transformers for this build. Bought this last year, but never got around to building it.


The DG300B board set consists of the following Neurochrome PCBs:

1x DG300B driver board
1x DG300B power supply board
1x 21st century maida regulator board (SMD populated by Neurochrome)
3x universal filament regulator board


Specifications for the transformers are:

1x Power transformer 150VA (vacuum encapsuled, epoxy filled in a polished, stainless steel box)
Supreme Audio Grade V2 side wiring
Primary: 230 VAC
Secondary-1: 360 VAC @ 250 mA
Secondary-2: 60 VAC @ 60 mA
Secondary-3: 12 VAC @ 2 A
Secondary-4: 12 VAC @ 2 A
Secondary-5: 6 VAC @ 100 mA

2x Custom Tube output transformer for SE EXPO side wiring (vacuum encapsuled, epoxy filled in a polished, stainless steel box):
Wind for 300B tubes
Power rating: 15-25 W
Primary current: 100 mA
Primary inductance: >10 H
Primary impedance: 5 kOhm
Primary voltage swing: 800 V
Secondary impedance: 8 Ohms


Price: 550 euro + shipping

Will not seperate items, unless transformers sell first.

WTB: FQA12P20 / FQA19N20 pairs

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I'm looking for genuine FQA12P20 / FQA19N20. Let me know if you have some and you are willing to sell them. I need 4 pairs but let me know even if you don't have that much.

Fixing dj mixer left output

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Hi I have Ecler nuo 2.0 dj mixer. It has this faulty left master output. Everything else works perfectly. The left output gives mostly noise. When cranking volume very high a little bit of music goes thru the left output.

Any ideas how should I approach this. I was thinking to open it up and clean with proper electrical cleaning spray. But if that's not enough to fix the problem what should I try next.



I hope this is the right forum to ask. I appreciate all the answers, thanks guys and gals 👍!

Car Stereo Has Power But No Sound

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Hey Guys,

Okay so the problem which I'm unable to sort out since last 3 weeks is about having no sound from my speakers while the head unit is working properly. And the sound comes back as soon I short the speaker wire with the bare metal. and i need to do this to right-rear speaker only, means it won't work if i do it with the left-rear speaker.

My Car is Honda Fit, I checked all the wiring twice, in fact thrice, ground is good, there is no factory amplifier and all the goods (head-unit & speakers) are after market. the fuses are good and head-unit is getting proper power, speaker wires are fine. yet every time I leave the car for a while, after coming back, i need to short the wire to get sound.

Would Highly appreciate if someone can put me on the right track to the solution.

Thanks

How to design open baffles with smallest possible baffle size

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Hi all,

Please see the attached images.
Some DIY open baffles have large (in terms of width) baffles, but some people are able to manage with smallest baffle width possible.

When i say small, i mean relative to the size of the driver.
How are they able to manage with smallest baffle size (in terms of width) ?? For example, for a 15" driver, how to manage with a baffle width of 17 to 18"

One of the important functions of the baffle is to separate the rear waves and front waves. In that sense, large baffle if preferred. But with small baffles, how is the front and rear waves separation possible ??

And then there is another concept of acoustic off center to reduce the peaks, which is obviously not possible with baffles with small width.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20191209_145520.jpg (229.4 KB)
File Type: jpg IMG_20191209_145536.jpg (246.8 KB)

Nuprime IDA 6 - Will i benefit from power conditioner?

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Sorry if this doesnt belong here. I recently bought an Nuprime IDA6 amplifier, I was reading about power conditioner and how the "clean" the line output. My question is, will I get any benefit from a power conditioner on this Nuprime device? I was reading an it already comes with an output filter, is it the same?

Thanks

My jig/method for making bevelled/chamfered baffles...

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Cut a wedge so the bevel line is parallel to the horizontal plane and attach a small stop block so the baffle does not want to ride backwards during the cut.

Attach wedge to a ply carrier board and make the cut.

Remove and flip wedge, cut other side.

CVT's?

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Is there anybody here skilled in the art of reckoning or repairing or designing or... CVT's, or ferroresonant stabilizers? I want to stat trying one of such devices, for low power and for may personal use only (not for commercial purposes) I have read some Sola patents from Google patents, but I would want some stuff more specific, with more details if possible.

Many thanks in advance.
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