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Pearl 2 Crackling on Left Channel

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I have a Pearl 2 phono preamp that I built 4 or 5 years ago. It has been working fine until yesterday. Now I am getting a crackling or static sound from the left channel with certain higher notes (for example a flute). The remainder of the music is unaffected but the crackling sits on top of the music and is intermittent (related to higher frequency notes). The right channel is fine. If I swap the Pearl 2 for another phono preamp, all is well - so it must be the Pearl 2.

I really like the Pearl but have no idea where to start troubleshooting this problem. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Autoformer + Jfet Buffer

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Using an Intact Autoformer, I added a LSK489 buffer based on the White Cathode Follower. Its a dual mono configuration using a 28v switching supply. The input cap is level shifted allowing a single supply design. Also added a muting shunt relay for noise free operation during power up & down. The jfet adds some 2nd harmonics. The 3rd order shown in the pic is mostly from the 8bit usb scope. I find the preamp surprisingly enjoyable and resolved. See attached. I plan on developing a linear power supply version(+/-24v) in the near future.

Chuck got it right...

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Chuck was right for sure.
We lost good hdmi air tv and was getting to the point I considered cable.
But had a hunch, turned and unplugged everything in house just like Chuck.
We then had great air tv again but with cell phones and lights off. Back to candles.

Over the next few weeks I'll gradually figure out how much emi is radiated by each device capable of broadband noise (using an IFR spectrum analyzer).
How much the hifi noise floor is raised is unknown.

The led lighting is top on the list as all of our 'bulbs' are now led.

Best regards Mr Chuck.

USB to SPDIF IC recommendations?

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I'm looking for an IC to provide a USB to SPDIF interface. Basically, the cheapest hardware configurable device that can do 24-bit at 48Khz. Some examples that are close, but not exact would be:

CM108B (i think it's limited to 16-bit, let me know if i'm wrong)
PCM290x (also limted to 16-bits)

TE7022L seems to be good fit, but I can't find it in production / for sale anywhere. Leads?

Any suggestions/recommendations would be appreciated as I've spent some time looking and keep hitting dead-ends with this.

Power Transistor replacements Fender Frontman 212r

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just wondering if a pair of 2sa1492/2sc3856 would be a suitable replacement for the original 2sa1294/2sc3263 power transistors in a silver face fender frontman 212r?

SUN Valley EQ1616D

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Click the image to open in full size.

Today I am very depressing to deal with family matter but when I hook up the phono amp...

I am falling into the music and I can't recall a moment of experience makes me sad. ...


Click the image to open in full size.

500 ohm output?

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Hi! I have a Wurlitzer 1400 Jukebox which uses a 514 tube amplifier. In addition to driving the internal 8ohm speaker, there is also a two-screw terminal strip to allow connection of external speakers. This output is labeled “Aux Speakers 500 ohm Line”. There is also a “fader” rotary switch that the manual explains allows the output to be balanced between the internal and aux speakers. The manual explains that the aux speakers should use line transformers to convert from the 500ohms to the individual speaker impedance.

I know that there are constant voltage speakers that are typically rated at 25, 70.7, or 100 volts. But there is no reference in the manual to constant voltage or any of these voltage levels. Does the 500 ohms imply one of these voltages, or is the 500 ohm output something completely different? I can find a lot of info about constant voltage speakers, but no references to 500 ohm outputs.

Thanks for any help!
-Steve.

Class D amplifier you can grow with

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Hello, I have been researching the Hypex, Modulus, and Purifi Class D amps. Unfortunately, some parts are too technical for me to understand with way too many models, and I was wondering if I could ask for some advice. I am currently looking to drive a pair of KEF R5 floor standing speakers rated at 15-200w at 8Ohms, but the speakers are at 3.5-5Ohms from 100-1kHz.

1) The speakers have 4 posts, and I assume that means HF/LF plugs, which I will call AB(HF) CD(LF), +/- respectively for the Left speaker and EF(HF) and GH(LF) for +/- Right speaker. For this setup, which models of the three brands above would suffice?

2) In a regular listening session for those "8Ohm" rated speakers, and I understand that term is relative for everyone, what is the range of WPC that would be used: 15-30WPC, 20-50WPC, 35-75WPC?
2b) What is "reference level listening volume" WPC for a 200w rated speaker?

3) I believe I read that the range where impedance drops lowest, is a very important range of frequency for human ears, so would I be rather looking at 4Ohm performance metric over the 8Ohm?

4) At some point, I will upgrade to a pair of KEF Reference 3 or Tekton's. When I upgrade to those speakers, I figured that I would add another of the same amp to "monoblock." This is where things get even more confusing for me. It seems those speakers should be "paired" with a 4Ohm amplifier. How do I "switch" the power for 4Ohm, or is that done automatically?
4b) How would I know that I am getting the 4Ohm driven sound which - allegedly - is a smoother experience, if there is no independent "4Ohm tap?"

5) If I "monoblock" the amp, and lets say that it is a Modulus-286, will I be "bridging" it, "bi-wiring" it, or "vertical-amping" it? Please feel free to correct to the most relevant amp for my cause.
5b) What are the problems or benefits in changing the stereo amplifier from original configuration into a single speaker function? I don't know if those 3 brands allow for such a function. I figure, AB goes into HF of left speaker, and CD goes into LF of left speaker, while the EF goes into HF of right speaker, and GH goes into the LF of the left speaker. Please let me know if I have that very wrong.

6) Again, if you look at Modulus-286, it says 65w at 8Ohm or 125w at 4Ohm. Is that for both channels?
6b) What is that in 1 channel (monoblocked)?
6c) In case of the higher grade speakers needing 400+WPC, will my minimum WPC used for "normal listening" increase from the above metric to a lot more, ie 100-200WPC? And since they need 4Ohm, actually 200-400WPC spec?

Thank you in advance and I apologize if this makes all your brains hurt from utter incompetence. Trust me, I know how you feel. Imagine your level of distaste, as that is the level of my confusion after months of trying to decipher things. And if the forum could, please try to dumb it down to a layman speak so that I can takeaway some meaningful parts. I appreciate any insight and advice you guys could offer.

Which one -KorgB1 or 1.7

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Hi, I currently have a B1 passive, but have recently got hold of a very nice 103M cartridge. Unfortunately as the 103M is very, very low output at 0.12mV. So I need to move to another phono amp or a new Preamp. Getting a phono amp that can drive that low output is a big ask.
So another option would be to go to one of the above, however I am not sure if the B1 Korg will have enough gain. I have been offered a 1.7 at a very good price, but it is still really more than I can afford at the present.
So my $1,000 question is is it worth while going for the 1.7 which will have more gain over the B1 Korg. i know this is very subjective, just looking for notable opinions.

Regard

Can you cheat slot port ratio?

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Can you divide a very wide slot port into multiple ports to avoid the problems of a high ratio slot? The slot on the left has a ratio of 1:12 and each slot on the right is 1:4.
Click the image to open in full size.
My gut feeling is this doesn't work, but then again why not?

Musical Fidelity E1 question

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Hi folks. I've decided to have a go at fixing a broken E1 to see how it sounds in my office system. I'm new at repairing so am leaning heavily on advice from a friend who has been helping me get started in this hobby.

The amp arrived with blown fuses so the obvious thing was to replace these. Replacements duly blown, I removed and tested the output transistors to find that one on each channel had, indeed, blown as well. So, first culprits identified.

There seems to be next to no information online about these amps and no component lists or schematics, unless anyone here knows to the contrary? I substituted the MF152N main power transistors with TIP3055s and gave it a whirl. Well, it instantly fried R45, located out on the right side of the circuit board.

Unfortunately, the photo I took of the board before starting work has the resistor hidden behind the capacitor! So I now have no way of knowing the value. Of all the photos on line, the least visible resistor is, you've guessed it, R45.

If anyone has an E1 out there and they fancy whipping the top off and send either a picture or the colour bands on R45 that would be brilliant. I've pretty much given up on trying to find a parts list or schematic.

Thanks all.

Switchable Fender TMB to James equalisation for bass amp

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Hi everyone,

this thread:
Dumble tone stack explained (in 60 seconds) - The Amp Garage

made me clearer what is the function of the rock/jazz switch on Dumble amps:

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

It switches from a Fender classical TMB eq to a James like eq.
I would like to have something similar to have an Aguilar db750 to 751 switchable kind of equalisation on one single preamp.

I would like to know how values can be chosen.

Aguilar DB750 schematic is already on this forum here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...emos080409-pdf

While Aguilar db751 says:
Quote:

EQ Section: passive tone stack with active midrange element
Bass: +12 / -12 @ 40Hz
Midrange: +12 / -12 @ 750Hz
Treble: +12 / -7 @ 4kHz
Thanks in advance

WTB: PCM1704U-K

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Looking for PCM1704U-K, 20 pin SOP for a repair

Anybody looking to sell?

Many thanks

problem with tube preamp after output was connected to input

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In an accident during a testing session of equipment my cheap chinese preamp had the output connected to the input for a very short time. Now the preamp does not give a lot of signal anymore. When i open the volume maximum there is still a bit signal, clean sounding (not distorted), but very weak. it!s point to point build and used to sound suprisingly good when i bought it so i would like to get it working again. If not possible, i'll do the original plan and use the enclosure with connectors and transformers for an own build (it was that cheap that it was cheaper than buying the parts seperate).

Inside nothing looks broken, no smoke or burning smell was seen during the accident. I tried to replace the tubes, but that does not make a difference. All tubes also look ok, and work in an other device without issue after being in this device. I think it also emits dc on the outpot (i used it with a solid state amp with dc blocking caps on the input to test). Could it be that the output coupling cap is gone? I don't really have test equipment to test it for the moment but a simple multimeter.

Included is the schematic and a picture of the inside in actual state. The tape thing on the side is because i modded the transformer setting from 110V to 220V and needed to fix the cables (i did not want to cut them of)

Attached Images
File Type: png 禾田茂电路图.png (43.4 KB)
File Type: jpg IMG_1968[1].jpg (985.0 KB)

Filtering SMPS into SMPS DC-DC converter

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Switch mode power supplies have improved a lot over the years. I'd like to use them in my next few projects as they are small, cheap and allow me to avoid working with mains voltage. These projects will all be low current - probably a preamplifier, MM phono stage and a headphone amplifier.

Power supply will be a laptop-style SMPS (24V) feeding a triple output SMPS DC-DC converter (+/- 15V), probably a Mean Well DKMW30F-15 or similar.

What is best practice for filtering the supplies? Connection scheme is in the attached image:

Attachment 845426

Is a common-mode choke a good choice for block A?

And for block B, CLC filters on the positive and negative rails?

The Mean Well DC-DC converter in question has a switching frequency of 330kHz. I'm also considering a TDK-Lambda unit, but they do not show the switching frequency in the data sheets.

Attached Images
File Type: png DC-DC.png (13.6 KB)

Goodmans Dimension 8 damaged PCB

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Hi all, looking for some technical advice please - subject is what to do about a speaker crossover with a damaged pcb.
Can I repair the pcb or should I try to create a new point to point wired crossover without using a pcb?
Background - Speaker is Goodmans Dimension 8. At some stage in its life one of the crossovers pcb has been physically damaged with a significant break at a couple of points.
My intention was to re-cap them anyway, which is why the crossovers were coming out.
I suspect a few things - at some point someone thought work was required on the crossover. In their attempt to get it out, they broke the pcb, and subsequently did some Frankenstein-style repairs on it.
To their credit, the speakers were working, just not sure how! And in their defence, I suspect that the reason the board broke in the first place was the original factory assembler got a bit excessive with the glue on the bottom of one of the coils which has seeped across to the mounting point, effectively glueing it in place .

Regardless of how it arose, I don’t think the pcb can be salvaged, so my question remains - can I replicate the crossover, without using a pcb, by wiring directly between the various components?
What issues should I be aware of with this approach?

And given this was going to be my first attempt at a re-cap, please be gentle....and use small words!😉

Better audio BJT than TIP31C?

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Hi all :)

I'm thinking of building a nice, simple SE headphone amplifier. Op amp driving a single NPN BJT with LM317 current source. I have a bunch of TIP31 and TIP32 in my parts bin, but will be ordering parts soon. Is there a better choice of currently-manufactured transistor than the TIP31C?

Thank you!

where does this circuit come from?

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Click the image to open in full size.


I copied this circuit on Nov. 08 19. I remember the author describing it as tape recorder amplifier design by a very known designer . Any clues to find the schematic with values ?

Symasym vs Mauro Penasa MyRef C

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Hi, i am new to the world of DIY amps. I currently have a jadis dp60l preamp paired with audio analogue donizetti monoblocks. I was wondering which amp is better sounding and more worth to build, symasym or myref C. I can get build both with the same price, so i just wanted to know which one is better to build. Thanks!

LS50.....GU50 Translation Please

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