Quantcast
Channel: diyAudio
Viewing all 93618 articles
Browse latest View live

How is the frequency range of a driver determined

$
0
0
This is extracted from my earlier question, which perhaps I didn't express clearly enough. If you buy a bare driver - Kef B200 for example - it has a frequency range in its spec. How is that measured? Is there a standard 'box' for all drivers? Or do they measure the cones ability to 'flap' at lower frequencies?

And we talk about 'bass extension' - there is no doubt you can hear that in a transmission line cab - but does the cabinet loading extend the ability of a driver to reproduce low frequencies beyond its rating as a bare driver?

Buy from Ebay

$
0
0
Hi all

Anyone from Us willing to buy something on my behalf ? No Paypal involved , this is the reason . Seller from Greenville , South Carolina if important .

thanks

preamp for BA-3

$
0
0
Hello,

I was advised the BA-3 amp as Nelson Pass amps introduction because I have low sensivity 3W speakers: 85/87 dB sensivity with loads from less than 3 ohms to 8 ohms. Have also loudspeakers with 4 ohms load rated relativly flat with no hard or steep break in the phase curve but full of drivers to drive nearer than 90 db sensivity starving for curent and my very simple understanding as no tech background is the more V*A=Watts, the better.

Before this advice I lurked about something not too much expensive introducing the SET sound without the hassle and my likings push me more to want learn about SS than tubes. So I thought about SIT/Vfet, alas F5 and BA-3 were said to be more realistic due to the load of my speakers :(. -But BA-3 or F5 still Ferraris, not the Aleph J, VFet2/Sit 250 GTO but at least a Ferrari yet :D-

Sorry for the long introduction of it, my question please is about not to ruin the BA-3 (and any FW NP designs) due to the volume control/preamp I could marry to it. I do not playback vynils and my DAC has no electronic digital volume control, so "good"volume control is mandatory.

What about a Muses control Kit for instance with or w/o Korg nutube kit to have a flavor of SET sound as the Aleph J or SIT/Vfet 2 are not advised with low efficienty classic speakers ?

My interest could be one day to use it in an active amps conf. My ref amp today is a nuclear central though has clarity : A Chord amp from the early 90s with sorted outputt Mosfet, SMPS powered- 200 W 8 ohms. So I have control but certainly no refinment.

Many thanks in advance for each of your answers, links.

Uptone USB REGEN

$
0
0
Used Uptone USB REGEN with USPCB A>B Adapter. Original owner, nonsmoking envoirnment.

The USB REGEN takes the digital audio stream from your computer or other music streaming device, and generates a completely new USB data signal to feed to your DAC. It accomplishes this by combining a carefully chosen USB hub chip with an ultra low-noise regulator and low-jitter clock. Importantly, it does so with ideal impedance matching—right at the input of your DAC

Price includes shipping and Paypal in the USA.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg UT1.jpg (520.9 KB)
File Type: jpg UT2.jpg (225.4 KB)
File Type: jpg UT3.jpg (201.4 KB)
File Type: jpg UT4.jpg (197.7 KB)

WTB Hypex SMPS 1200A400

$
0
0
Hi

As mentioned in the thread, I am looking to buy Hypex SMPS 1200A400's and preferably in the UK/EU.

Thanks

Seb

Howto integrated DAC, Bluetooth, 2x Optical IN, digital switch

$
0
0
Hi Everyone,

I just finished the built of my first chipamp based on the MyRef_Fremen edition. It's a standalone amplifier with RCA in, powering a stereo setup, without volume control.

The next step is to integrate this amplifier into my living room setup. I'm using an lcd tv, an Nvidia Shield Android TV. Most of the time we are listening to music via being casted from our phone to the Android TV.

Must haves
  1. Volume Control
  2. Digital EQ
  3. RCA out
  4. Optical IN x 2
  5. USB IN
  6. Play music via Bluetooth 5.0
  7. Play Hi-Res FLAC files
  8. Remote controlled

Nice to haves
  1. Digital switching between Optical, USB and 3.5mm jack
  2. Loudness control
  3. Media streamer
  4. HDMI-in

What would we the best way to achieve this? The 3.5mm output jack on my TV is way to noisy, but it also has an optical out.

I'm a fan of the DIY route and would not mind spending some time buying different modules, soldering, assembeling them in a case, ... But I also note that because this section of diyaudio is focused on digital, that most members seem to buy ready-made boards and assemble them. But these boards in general seem to be rather expensive.

Alternatively I would just buy something like a Topping D50s DAC, that fits most of my requirements. And it's probably cheaper compared to the DIY route.

WDYT? Any suggestions?

Thanks!

MJL1302/3281

$
0
0
Hi,
I have a lot of these transistors and want to use them for repairing my ASW-4000 amplifier from B&W.Originally is placed 2SC5200 and 2SA1943.
Can they be just swapped if i also replace drivers for them?

Attached Files
File Type: pdf bw_asw-4000_active_subwoofer_sm.pdf (1.63 MB)

CD playback and DAC

$
0
0
Am very confused by the exotic and expensive DAC around these days. My question is does CD playback really need such High Definition DAC? What do you think will be your choice for a CD only playback DAC?

WTB: PRV 5MR450-NDY Drivers

$
0
0
Hey all, looking to buy some of these drivers (2 or more).

Shoot me a note if you have some to sell!

Thanks
Jim

QB3/300 Curves need (Triode)

$
0
0
Hi guys.

Im looking for curves for tube.

Triode straped QB3/300 somone can help?

Rockola amplifier lacks treble.

$
0
0
Hi audio lovers ! I bought an amplifier from a Rockola 429, the chassis is 41056-A. The tubes I got with were very bad sounding so I got some new output tubes. The problems are the basic hum and the lack of treble. Even if I put the treble at maximum, it is still not enough compared to my other amps. Does someone have some advices for improving the sound, because right now my only option is to sell it. Maybe chage all the caps , they seem to be all original (1965). Or modify the circuit, or use all the transformers and tubes, get a modern schematic and redo it entirely.

Missing PCB pad.

$
0
0
Just replacing some damaged caps in an Audiolab 8200CDQ. This is the second time this has been done as I have power supply issues where I live. The first relate was done by an IAG certified tech. When I unsoldered the caps I noticed to of the pads on the underside of the board are missing. They are intact on the surface. Can I still solder to these? Just use more solder so it runs through the bottom to the surface pads? What’re your thoughts?

Attached Images
File Type: jpg 17221376-012A-4CCC-AC75-8D9F81180994.jpg (613.2 KB)

FS: Muse Electronic Volume/Remote parts

$
0
0
Selling the two (2) boards and controller chip (as a set) if you are interested in installing an electronic volume/remote in your gear. New & unused. See the following link for the discussion of same:
MUSES 72320 electronic volume
Will ship to you USPS Priority Mail in the USA for $50. $45 plus actual shipping cost in the ROW.

Click the image to open in full size.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg Remote.JPG (98.3 KB)

Noisy USB ports

$
0
0
I have discovered that my PC has very noisy USB ports.

I recently installed JBL 305P self-powered monitor speakers for nearfield use. I can hear a low level buzz and hiss. It's not the typical ground loop hum. The noise is worse when I hook up directly to the motherboard, and a bit less when I use the USB ports on my computer case. The noise is apparent only when there's no music playing or the music level is very low. Of course I would prefer a black background.

PC is a ryzen 7 2700 with 16 GB RAM, no soundcard. I use Foobar2000 as my media player.

Connections are as follows: Computer case USB port --> Audioquest Dragonfly 3.5mm out via balalnced XLR cable --> JBL LSR310S active subwoofer then balanced XLR cables to --> JBL 310P MkII active monitors.

Would some sort of USB filtering device work? I'm interested in getting a different outboard DAC but AFAIK, most of the less expensive ones don't advertise any type of USB filtering. There use to be a Schiit Wyrd but that has been discontinued.

This device would seem to work but it is not rated for USB 2.0 speeds, but the spec reading "upport USB 1.5 Mbps at low speed and full speed 12 Mbps and does not support pure high-speed equipment". Would this thing be fast enough when using high resolution files?Amazon.com: Nobsound USB to USB Isolator Module Audio Noise Eliminator Industrial Isolator Protection: Home Audio & Theater

Another filter is this dongle, which I just ordered to try. Amazon.com: iSilencer3.0 USB Audio Noise Eliminator/Suppressor - Remove Unwanted Noise from Audio - System Upgrade: Home Audio & Theater

Otherwise any of the more robust USB filters that are rated for USB 3.0 speeds are in the $350 range.

Has anyone had this type of problem and come up with a solution that works without spending a ton of money of an outboard box?

Stromberg Carlson ASP-60 out of phase transformers

$
0
0
Can someone explain to me the reason for this stereo amplifier to wire the output transformers out of phase from each other? The primaries are flipped from each other and the feedback windings are also flipped from each other but the speaker taps are wired in phase so the outputs are essentially out of phase from each other if you hook up your speakers correctly. I don't believe it's a drawing error since there's an amp on eBay that someone wrote a warning on the bottom plate about its reverse phase so it is wired correctly according to schematic. Very strange. This is also the second half of an integrated amp (full pdf schematic) section but can be used independently. But in the preamp section there's no phase switching on either channel. Head scratching.... :confused: :scratch2:

Any thoughts?

Attached Images
File Type: jpg Stromberg_ASP-60_schem_1600X2600.jpg (472.8 KB)

Saba Greencone frequency response graphs

$
0
0
Hi diyAudio community,

Does anyone have Saba Greencone 4" & 8" frequency response and impedance graphs? I'm looking for FRD & ZMA files.

Thanks in advance!

S & C APH 1100 input trannies

$
0
0
Hi you all!
I have 4x SC APH 1100 and I was wondering if putting input transformers in them would be a worthwhile project. the amp itself has a octal socket for ipt but the pinout is different on the ipt I have. Also, I would like to know what you would recommend for best selection out of my ipt's. I have 2x McMartin MP-102 Dual mic pre-amp ipt's, 1x McMartin LD-202 line driver amp, 1x Gardners AF matching transformer MU7526 600 Ohm primary, 2.5/10k secondary, one just labeled ACDC 15385, and one Bozak CMA 481. I would like to use the dual mic pre's but should I buy another to match one of the others I have? I plan to use these in a home audio set-up possibly with occasional PA or DJ use. Could anyone help with the pinout on these? Or tell me how to figure it out myself? Thank you in advance. Zap:D

A tube amp for an odd beast

$
0
0
Hello and thank you for stopping by. I need to throw this out there, and start getingt to it.

I'm gearing up for my 3rd tube amp build, but, this one may stand to be something different from my previous builds - I've built a Fender 40 watt and a 20 watt 6V6 Marshall plexi. I'm an electronic technician pretty much by trade so fortunately, these builds went well and I use the Fender as my gigging amp.

I need to build a third amp for an instrument I made. On first sight, this intrument looks like a walnut Stratocaster with elaborate brass inlays and one single pickup, a humbucker in the neck position. This "guitar" will never be picked, plucked nor strummed. It is a fretless that I made strictly for use with an ebow (electronic bow). It is a pure, singing melody instrument who's lyrical expression is far close to a cello or violin than any guitar you would ever hear. It is my big, 10 pound electric violin/cello that looks oddly like a Fender Stratocaster. Primarily I've been using it straight through my DI - micpreamps - stereo FX processor - D/A converter into recording software. I'm fairly convinced that it would benifit from an amp that has a strong Hi Fi element(s) to it. It can sound good through a typical clean guitar tube amp but sounds a bit strident or mushy. a little of that is OK but it lacks a more pristine quality that is heard though my relatively hi-end home studio front end.

I'd like to use a pair of KT88's for the power section. The idea of having good headroom at moderate stage volume is attractive, and plus, I just like something about those tubes, even the way they look.
The option for UL also is something that interest me for this project. and if for some reason, I preferred straight pentode, I'd still have the option.
I build a "tube designed station" out of an old Bogner amp so, I'm in a good place to try different topologies as I go.

Strangly enough, this "guitar" used with the Ebow, volume pot full up yields an output of nearly 3 volts at maximum. This is just about line level and a very high output compared to the typical 250mV of a typical electric guitar. So right there, It would be easy to push every stage of a typical guitar tube amp into saturation (which is the opposite of what this will need).

In my recent looking around for alternatives I found those Dynaco Hi Fi amps interesting, that perhaps they may be a good start to hear what this strange instrument would sound like though a more Hi Fi tube amp.
What would your first inclination be for an instrument with 15k ohm @ 2-3volt output be if you wanted it big, rich and clean?
I figured it wouldn't be too much to ask for 60-70 watts from a pair of KT88's in UL.
Thanks muchly for your time,
Phil D

Acoustic Elegance TD15 S bass - woofer, 4 ohms 500W

$
0
0
Offering only 1 bass driver. This is woofer, could be used in many different sealed or vented designs. High excursion, very low distortion. Very little used, purchased new from Acoustic Elegance a few years back. The TD Series woofers are low distortion, high Xmax, wide bandwidth, bass drivers designed for sealed or vented enclosure applications. The TDS use a 2 layer round wire copper coil for higher Qts. They are typically the option chosen for sealed box applications and larger vented box applications. They are often used in larger floor standing speakers. This is heavy driver.

Price $ 350.00 plus shipping


Specs:
TD15S-8ohm
Fs: 22.8Hz
Qms: 3.87
Vas: 467 L
Cms: .45 mm/N
Mms: 108 g
Rms: 4 kg/S
Xmax: 14 mm(peak)
Xmech: 20 mm(peak)
Sd: 855 sqcm
Vd: 2.4L (p-p)
Qes: .41
Re: 5.3 ohm
Le: .3 mH
Z: 8 ohm
Bl: 14.1 T/m
Pe: 500W (cont.)
Qts: .37
1WSPL: 93.4 dB
2.83V: 95.11 dB
TD15S-4ohm
Fs: 22.8Hz
Qms: 3.87
Vas: 467 L
Cms: .45 mm/N
Mms: 108 g
Rms: 4 kg/S
Xmax: 14 mm(peak)
Xmech: 20 mm(peak)
Sd: 855 sqcm
Vd: 2.4L (p-p)
Qes: .41
Re: 3.5 ohm
Le: .3 mH
Z: 4 ohm
Bl: 11.5 T/m
Pe: 500W (cont.)
Qts: .37
1WSPL: 93.4 dB
2.83V: 96.91 dB
Suggested Enclosures:
3.0-6.0 cubic foot sealed
5.0-8.0 cubic foot vented

Attached Images
File Type: jpg CF035010.jpg (191.5 KB)
File Type: jpg CF035012.jpg (267.7 KB)
File Type: jpg CF035015.jpg (176.3 KB)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Acoustic Elegance TD15S - Sealed or Vented Box Applications.pdf (789.5 KB)

balanced Class D output with conventional crossovers

$
0
0
I can't seem to find out about how the "balanced outputs... two active signal lines" works with a conventional crossover in a speaker with all the different types of circuits involved like LCR or a zoble or others. Anyone have any experience?

Having the "ground" at the wrong end as originally intended for half the cycle seems like it could cause some unexpected results.

I was thinking about trying out the ICEPOWER 1200AS1 But I have a XO that I am quite a bit invested in... Do you have to balance the XO to the other leg? doubling the XO parts?
Viewing all 93618 articles
Browse latest View live