February 6, 2015, 2:09 pm
Hey guys!
To make a DIY car player/amp, which one is better? TDA7388 or TDA7560?
The datasheets show far better specs for TDA7560, but when I tested both, I could hardly notice any differences in sound.
Same Output Power, Same distortion, Same Power Consumption, Same Heat dissipation etc.
The odd part is that, commercial players mostly use 7388! :eek:
Does Anyone know Which one is better?
Replies appreciated.
Regards,
Viper.
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February 6, 2015, 2:10 pm
Hi,
how can on make out while listening that there is a problem with the power supply?
Thanks
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February 6, 2015, 2:36 pm
Hello!
I am going to add an electrical stove in my kitchen near to my fridge, microwave, e-grill, toaster and coffee machine! At this time I have a 16A breaker on the feedline for it and a 1,5mm copper! What changes should I do? I have a place where it could be pluged in and never removed from there looking at it the way that the socket has never had anything else plugged in ever, no loose contacts so that heat would build up! Thank you!
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February 6, 2015, 2:52 pm
Hi.
At this moment I have got a Nelson Pass Zen amp (first version). It sounds very good. I would like to bulid even better amp. I don't mind about the power, quality is most important. I like warm sound with forward midrange and nice deep bass. I would like SS amp not chip amp. I think a class A amp will be the best. I thought about: hiraga le monstre, jlh 1969, some aleph. What can you recomend?
Sorry if I made some lingual mistakes (I'm still practicing my english).
Greetings from Poland Oskar.
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February 6, 2015, 2:58 pm
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February 6, 2015, 4:37 pm
Hi good folks :cheers: so far on all the input you guys have but my head hertz
Anyway have a pair of wharfedale valdus 400 speakers which I ripped the guts out of:) and stuck on a piece of chipboard !!
Now those speakers in the cabs are boomy bloody muddled doods. So with nothing to loose and reading many posts regarding open baffle why not.
The sound well 100% improved but well below what I am seeking! but a real eye opener!!!!!:D
Gobsmacked to say the least a sound without a box (another story for another thread:rolleyes:)
So I bit the bullet
Ok robbed the kids money box
And have acquired jbl m115-8 driver(woofers)
Jbl 2421h compression drivers
Stock crossovers from eon 1500passive cabs
Approx 75$
10 classroom tables approx 3/4 " mds melamamite coated. Free
Looking at getting 2. Jbl 338800-001 waveguides £25 / $38
Does this appear reasonable
And what advice so far could anyone give me.
Electrical wizardry measurementry may be funded later upon advice
Thanks for reading
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February 6, 2015, 6:03 pm
I have a pair of Heathkit SS-1 and SS-1B cabinets for free (you pick up).
No grill cloth (it was rotten anyway).
Very similar to a Jensen Duet (SS-1) and the SS-1B has very similar dimensions to Jensen Bass Ultraflex 15 or even the Triplex.
I'm in Blue Springs, MO. I'm giving it a couple weeks, then I have to get rid of them.
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February 6, 2015, 6:07 pm
Amp powers up but no sound ..
I have + - 15 volts on all op-amps
I have + - 45 volts of rail voltage
evrything checks good..
Any ideas?
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February 6, 2015, 6:29 pm
I was thinking about making a pedal supply adjustable from 12v+ or so down to 0v if possible using whatever parts I have.
I have some of these LM2596 step down DC converters:
![Click the image to open in full size.]()
I was thinking I could wire a pot right in place of the trimmer to adjust the voltage. They switch at ~60 kHz but in practice it still also creates lower frequency noise so I was thinking about using a filter like this:
![Click the image to open in full size.]()
In this circuit the output is always going to be about 2 diode drops (actually only 1.05v) below the input which is not bad because the DC converter only goes down to about 1.2 volts so the drops actually help get closer to 0v.
Can someone suggest a better circuit? I was actually thinking about doing a bipolar supply (so I can switch each output to + or - for positive ground fuzzes). So I could use an op amp if the circuit called for it.
The 57uH 0.7R inductor is the only beefy part that have multiple of.
Any other ideas?
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February 6, 2015, 6:36 pm
Looking for you old blown and dusty orion amps for parts. Pretty much anything before their acquisition by DEI. Pm me with details and asking price. Send pics to
nuttcase21@aol.com.
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February 7, 2015, 2:27 pm
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February 7, 2015, 2:42 pm
Hi
Before I just buy something cheap from ebay - does anyone know of a UK source of (inexpensive) metal boxes to house a couple of amp-sized projects?
Many thanks
John
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February 7, 2015, 3:02 pm
I am in the process of building a 2a3 amp and want to use good and reliable 4 pin sockets. I have some Chinese made sockets, but in the past I have used old soviet sockets for my octals. I have yet to find soviet 4 pin sockets for my needs (would really like to if they exist).
Can someone here point me in the right direction for good quality 2a3 sockets?
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February 7, 2015, 3:36 pm
I am very new to this so treat me like a 5 year old.
I am building my first sub with the Infinity 1260w driver and the cab from jinjuku's build
here .
I am planning to use the iNuke 1000DSP to power it. The input and out put terminals on these amps are called speakon right?
The A/V receiver I am use has an unpowered sub out that is RCA.
How would I connect this receiver to the iNuke?
Also would it be better to install regular binding posts on the sub cab or use a speakon female connecter.
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February 7, 2015, 3:41 pm
Just testing to see if live streaming is a viable source of fun.
In this episode:
The audio works, We put a VFET under the microscope, and Mike wears an orange jumper.
Thanks and apologies to those who tuned in at 11:00 AM. Technical difficulties...
Lab Hangout #1.1
@ZM Testing 1,2,3, Echo! :)
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February 7, 2015, 3:56 pm
I am very new to this so treat me like a five year old. Also I hope I posted in the correct forum.
I am building my first sub woofer and am using the Infinity 1260w driver and thinking about using the iNuke 1000DSP to power it. This amp uses speakon connecters right? My A/V receiver has a single RCA unpowered sub out. How do I connect the RCA out signal to the speakon input on the iNuke? And should I install normal binding posts on the sud cab or a speakon female connecter?
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February 7, 2015, 4:04 pm
I'm looking for a good 4'' midrange driver and a small format tweeter for my build. The budget is under $30 for each driver, but can be pushed to $50 if it is worth it. The goal is to design a speaker that has a lively and a crisp sound. The 4'' midrange should have excellent midrange clarity and (preferably) have some bass to about 70Hz. The small format tweeter should be a bit bright sounding, but not Klipsch horns bright, and must have good off axis performance (otherwise I would have just used a Vifa XT25).
Background of the build: this is my attempt at a high quality DIY sound dock build. The current design I have in mind is a horizontal speaker in a WTM configuration in a 4 liter box (0.15 cf). The woofer will be the Dayton ND105 with 2 Peerless 3.5'' PRs tuned to 50Hz.
A miniDSP will be used as an active 2.5 way crossover, as well as applying any EQ needed to flatten or shape the FR and apply bass boost and limiters (to prevent the driver from killing themselves), but I think I'll probably build a passive crossover for the midrange and tweeter so I can use just one amp instead of 2 (I wish there were 3 channel amps).
****Because of this, please ignore any enclosure volume restrictions when it comes to recommending a driver****** I will use the miniDSP to EQ away any frequency humps or anomalies from using a driver in an undersized enclosure.
Thanks everyone.
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February 7, 2015, 4:31 pm
I set bias on my bread-boarded Bassman (fitted with 6V6s) at 20mA (measured across 1 ohm on the 6V6 cathode-to-ground leg), no input ("quiescent"). But with a 1 kHz signal at 150mV, max volume gives me 80mA (80mV across the 1ohm). With Vplate of 380, this is 30 watts. Isn't this much more than rated for the 6V6? Is tube data an average? The 150 mV is p-p from my scope. Tubes arent red-plating.... I want to simulate normal guitar, which when playing will probably :"average" much less than 150 mV? Thanks!
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February 7, 2015, 4:32 pm
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4 - New Hubbell HBL5262 Duplex Receptacles - Specification Grade - $30 for 4
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February 7, 2015, 5:01 pm
Hey, sorry if this is in the wrong part of the site. I wasn't sure if I should post in here or the loud speakers forum.
Anyway, I've got a Plinius SA50 (pretty sure it's a mkII from memory) and I was wondering if I could use
this speaker combination with the amp. Note: I have the
R3004/6020-00 Illuminator Tweeters.
So Scanspeak 18w4531-g00's and R3004/6020-00's. Both are 4 ohm. I do not have a crossover for them, but will either get one designed and made by someone more knowledgeable than me in that area, or I'll get one designed and make it myself if I ever find the time. Enclosure design can come later but I was looking at something similar to the
zaph zrt 2 way ported design.
The amp benches at about 72rms from memory. I got the speakers in 4 ohm to use in a car setup, but ended up going with Eric Stevens HLCD's after some testing and like the 18sound 6nd430's because they are a lot easier to fit and have a higher sensitivity to try and match the horns.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Cheers,
Tom
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