I have some basic knowledge of diode resistors effect kind of stuff and when I'm trying to do is where can I go to learn how to troubleshoot and repair electronic stuff
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How can I to troubleshoot and repair
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Persistent phono hum in Altronics kit 5513
Hi all, it thought I had hum problem in my turntable, however after some time I discovered the hum was still present unchanged when I unplugged everything from my phono stage of my preamp.
My phono preamp is an Altronics phono kit as per the design in the silicon chip magazine. This was mounted in a plastic kit case as part of a passive preamp, which consists of a input rotary switch and a volume knob.
Hum is only present when the phono stage is selected, I have also switched to a better metal box since the photo was taken (using the same layout) changed to a metal box for better ground shielding but with no appreciable improvement.
The kit offers a suggested upgrade to a grounded power supply, but suggests this is normally unnecessary.
Any thoughts (especially from those who have built this kit) as to why I'm having this problem?
![Click the image to open in full size.]()
Note bank of resistors is for quick input load change
My phono preamp is an Altronics phono kit as per the design in the silicon chip magazine. This was mounted in a plastic kit case as part of a passive preamp, which consists of a input rotary switch and a volume knob.
Hum is only present when the phono stage is selected, I have also switched to a better metal box since the photo was taken (using the same layout) changed to a metal box for better ground shielding but with no appreciable improvement.
The kit offers a suggested upgrade to a grounded power supply, but suggests this is normally unnecessary.
Any thoughts (especially from those who have built this kit) as to why I'm having this problem?
Note bank of resistors is for quick input load change
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Amp Storage
I have a Rockford Gen2 Punch 150 and a Gen2 Punch 45 that has been in storage for about 20 years. Is there any thing that I should do to them before using them again?
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Tweeter & midrange for my active 4-way? TPL150 & PHL 1660?
Hello.
I while back I started a thread to help me design a bass section and received outstanding help. I'm hoping for good help here too:D
My aim is for a 4-way active stereo pair to be driven from a computer with Acourate software to do room correction, driver linearization, and digital crossover. That would feed a multichannel DAC, which in turn will drive amps directly, that in turn will drive the drivers directly.
As of now my design includes 12" subs to cover 20 to 80 (or 90 Hz). I already have a pair of DIY Rythmiks for this.
Midbass will be in a sealed box and will go from 80Hz up to 650/750Hz. I'm undecided about the driver, but shortlisted candidates are Acoustic Elegance TD10M or TD12M probably with Apollo motor upgrade, or Beyma 12P80Nd or 10MI100. I also got very good input about construction.
Now it's time to focus on tweeter and midrange. On the bass section thread I received a recommendation for TPL-150 and PHL 1660/1670. I've seen very, very good comments about the TPL-150 and not as many, but good comments about the 1660/1670.
What else should I consider?
How are Raals vs tPL-150? From my readings I got the sense one of the strengths of the TPL-150 is it can be crossed over low, somewhere around 1.5kHz. I believe in a 4-way I don't need this. Right? I was thinking of running the tweeter from 3 or 4kHz upwards, and hopefully get response above 20kHz as well. Mundorf AMTs? Or just stick with the TPL-150?
Regarding midrange, I guess I want to run from 650/750Hz up to 3/4kHz, despite the midbass drivers being able to go easily up to 1kHz. Accutons come to mind. I've seen significant talk about some Beymas here. Those PHL 1660 seem like a good option, although unfortunately PHL does not publish frequency response and/or impedance curves. Also, 1 or 2 midrange drivers?
OB or sealed boxes? What I read about OB is appealing to me.
BTW, the front wall is about 1m from the tweeters (and could potentially extend to1.4m) and side walls are 1.4m from the tweeter center, and listening position is at 2.4m from the tweeters, and speaker centers are 2.4m apart. Room is 30m2, with ceiling 2.4m high.
Looking forward to your comments!
I while back I started a thread to help me design a bass section and received outstanding help. I'm hoping for good help here too:D
My aim is for a 4-way active stereo pair to be driven from a computer with Acourate software to do room correction, driver linearization, and digital crossover. That would feed a multichannel DAC, which in turn will drive amps directly, that in turn will drive the drivers directly.
As of now my design includes 12" subs to cover 20 to 80 (or 90 Hz). I already have a pair of DIY Rythmiks for this.
Midbass will be in a sealed box and will go from 80Hz up to 650/750Hz. I'm undecided about the driver, but shortlisted candidates are Acoustic Elegance TD10M or TD12M probably with Apollo motor upgrade, or Beyma 12P80Nd or 10MI100. I also got very good input about construction.
Now it's time to focus on tweeter and midrange. On the bass section thread I received a recommendation for TPL-150 and PHL 1660/1670. I've seen very, very good comments about the TPL-150 and not as many, but good comments about the 1660/1670.
What else should I consider?
How are Raals vs tPL-150? From my readings I got the sense one of the strengths of the TPL-150 is it can be crossed over low, somewhere around 1.5kHz. I believe in a 4-way I don't need this. Right? I was thinking of running the tweeter from 3 or 4kHz upwards, and hopefully get response above 20kHz as well. Mundorf AMTs? Or just stick with the TPL-150?
Regarding midrange, I guess I want to run from 650/750Hz up to 3/4kHz, despite the midbass drivers being able to go easily up to 1kHz. Accutons come to mind. I've seen significant talk about some Beymas here. Those PHL 1660 seem like a good option, although unfortunately PHL does not publish frequency response and/or impedance curves. Also, 1 or 2 midrange drivers?
OB or sealed boxes? What I read about OB is appealing to me.
BTW, the front wall is about 1m from the tweeters (and could potentially extend to1.4m) and side walls are 1.4m from the tweeter center, and listening position is at 2.4m from the tweeters, and speaker centers are 2.4m apart. Room is 30m2, with ceiling 2.4m high.
Looking forward to your comments!
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Energetic 2-way or mtm?
Does anyone know of a two way or mtm floor standing design that would be good for especially dynamic, energetic music? I mostly listen to metal, but sometimes I'll toss on a Leonard Cohen album or something like that so they can't be too aggressive.
I'm looking to upgrade away from my Polk Monitor 7's because they are a little too laid back/ lacking bass extension and 'oomph'.
I was going to build the frugalhorn, but it seems like those would be less ideal. I'm also toying with the idea of just buying kilpsch Heresy's or dynaco a25's. Budget is around $300. $400 max
I'm running a 15wpc Magnavox tube amp at the moment
I'm looking to upgrade away from my Polk Monitor 7's because they are a little too laid back/ lacking bass extension and 'oomph'.
I was going to build the frugalhorn, but it seems like those would be less ideal. I'm also toying with the idea of just buying kilpsch Heresy's or dynaco a25's. Budget is around $300. $400 max
I'm running a 15wpc Magnavox tube amp at the moment
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48V PSU- Trimpot frying
Hello all,
I've built a PSU to power up a mic pre. Attached schematic. Meter reads 24VDC and ~68VDC on the tripler. If I try to wind down the voltage on the 317, I fry the trimpot. I'm using a 3296 KT, 28 turn 5k (0.5W) is that a problem? Any suggestions. :confused:
Luc
I've built a PSU to power up a mic pre. Attached schematic. Meter reads 24VDC and ~68VDC on the tripler. If I try to wind down the voltage on the 317, I fry the trimpot. I'm using a 3296 KT, 28 turn 5k (0.5W) is that a problem? Any suggestions. :confused:
Luc
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EL84 triode mode @ 425V?
I am thinking of trying a build with a switchable pentode/triode mode for EL84.
The plate voltage will be around 425V, and the screen grids will be lowered with 1k resistors + zeners to around 300V.
However, I am not sure what to do with the triode mode. Should I connect the screen grid to the plate with a larger resistor like 3k, which would keep the screen grids at around 400V? Or should I add a zener in there as well to reduce to ~300V?
I am simply not 100% sure on how the zeners would affect the triode connection tone-wise. Actually I am not sure if a zener is the right component to drop 100V off the grids..
Thank you for your time, great knowledge here.
The plate voltage will be around 425V, and the screen grids will be lowered with 1k resistors + zeners to around 300V.
However, I am not sure what to do with the triode mode. Should I connect the screen grid to the plate with a larger resistor like 3k, which would keep the screen grids at around 400V? Or should I add a zener in there as well to reduce to ~300V?
I am simply not 100% sure on how the zeners would affect the triode connection tone-wise. Actually I am not sure if a zener is the right component to drop 100V off the grids..
Thank you for your time, great knowledge here.
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FS:Aura NS15-992-4a
Hi All,
I have 2 NS15-992-4a's available. I bought them a few years back and they have just been sitting collecting dust. I am a relatively new member here, but have perfect feedback on eBay as well as other forums.
I'd like to get 350.00 + shipping per driver. Local pick up is prefer in the Los Angeles/Orange County area.
![Click the image to open in full size.]()
![Click the image to open in full size.]()
![Click the image to open in full size.]()
Please PM me with any questions.
I have 2 NS15-992-4a's available. I bought them a few years back and they have just been sitting collecting dust. I am a relatively new member here, but have perfect feedback on eBay as well as other forums.
I'd like to get 350.00 + shipping per driver. Local pick up is prefer in the Los Angeles/Orange County area.
Please PM me with any questions.
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FS: pair SS 18W8531G00 Melbourne Australia
FS: pair SS 18W8531G00 Melbourne Australia
$400 for the pair, brand new never used in original box
email me or call, 03 8401 4819, valcomaustralia@gmail.com
Cheers
Alex
$400 for the pair, brand new never used in original box
email me or call, 03 8401 4819, valcomaustralia@gmail.com
Cheers
Alex
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Looking for basic source mixer for home system
Hello,
I am looking for something to send all my audio sources to one amplifier. Attached is a diagram with the details.
It is hard to find on the Web mostly because I don't know what terms to search for.
I hope to buy it ready made if the price is ok. I would not be able to build it myself. But I can make the cables if necessary.
I am not looking for high-end specs: the rest of my stuff is far from studio quality :)
Thanks.
JM
I am looking for something to send all my audio sources to one amplifier. Attached is a diagram with the details.
It is hard to find on the Web mostly because I don't know what terms to search for.
I hope to buy it ready made if the price is ok. I would not be able to build it myself. But I can make the cables if necessary.
I am not looking for high-end specs: the rest of my stuff is far from studio quality :)
Thanks.
JM
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FA on eBay,Shinkoh tantalum 0.5w resistors.
Hi,
Currently clearing out approx 100 Shinkoh tantalum 0.5w resistors at eBay.Start price $0.99.
Rare Shinkoh Tantalum 5W Audio Resistors | eBay
Currently clearing out approx 100 Shinkoh tantalum 0.5w resistors at eBay.Start price $0.99.
Rare Shinkoh Tantalum 5W Audio Resistors | eBay
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seas curv7 and fountek neo 2
Does anyone have the FRD and ZMA files for these drivers..? Would love to work the crossover before getting the drivers and shooting then. Doing a MTM design with these drivers looks good any word would be great.. thanks guys..
Drivers are seas 7 inch curv *2 and the fountek neo 2 inch..
looking for a 60hz low end up to 20k..
Drivers are seas 7 inch curv *2 and the fountek neo 2 inch..
looking for a 60hz low end up to 20k..
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Musical Fidelity eb-33 or eb50 headphones in ear
Hey I don't. Know if anyone knows but Musical Fidelity are now making headphones.
Does anyone have opinions on the eb33?
Home AV Direct: LCD TVs | Plasma TVs | Blue Ray & DVD Players | DAB radios and more
Thanks
Does anyone have opinions on the eb33?
Home AV Direct: LCD TVs | Plasma TVs | Blue Ray & DVD Players | DAB radios and more
Thanks
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Closing down the workbench !! #1
Well, after 8 years of DIY audio projects, I am closing down the workbench to focus all of my efforts on my music production. So I figured here would be a good place to clean house. I will be selling everything from components and tubes totest equipment and tools. Its all gotta go.
Too much too list in 1 post, so this is posting #1
US shipping and Paypal only please. Make an offer if my prices seem too high.
If you have questions and I want to get a hold of me quicker, message or send me friend request on facebook cause I am always connected to it. First name : Opaque Last Name : Fate Location : Hartford, WI
7 transformers - $150 7 transformers pulled from various gear - all are good. 40 pounds of transformers-fits into a Large USPS priority box.
Sola SDN 10-24-100P Power Supply - $40 24vd @ 10 amps. Used. Works great.
Amprobe CT600 Current clamp - $35 In case, works great.
11" Subwoofer - $20 Pulled from a sub with a dead amp. Tested good.
Photos here : https://www.dropbox.com/sh/vf5wurws5...I2IISgR8a?dl=0
Thanks !!
Too much too list in 1 post, so this is posting #1
US shipping and Paypal only please. Make an offer if my prices seem too high.
If you have questions and I want to get a hold of me quicker, message or send me friend request on facebook cause I am always connected to it. First name : Opaque Last Name : Fate Location : Hartford, WI
7 transformers - $150 7 transformers pulled from various gear - all are good. 40 pounds of transformers-fits into a Large USPS priority box.
Sola SDN 10-24-100P Power Supply - $40 24vd @ 10 amps. Used. Works great.
Amprobe CT600 Current clamp - $35 In case, works great.
11" Subwoofer - $20 Pulled from a sub with a dead amp. Tested good.
Photos here : https://www.dropbox.com/sh/vf5wurws5...I2IISgR8a?dl=0
Thanks !!
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MiniDSP DDRC-22A
Anyone here using the MiniDSP DDRC-22A or the OpenDRC-AN which uses the same hardware platform?
DDRC-22A | MiniDSP
I'm looking for a sense of how this modestly priced hardware performs in terms of noise, dynamic range, perceived loss of resolution, etc.
Anyone modify the I/O circuitry if they perceived improvement could be had?
I'm specifically interested in the DDRC-22A which is not quite cheap enough for me to risk without some answers.
DDRC-22A | MiniDSP
I'm looking for a sense of how this modestly priced hardware performs in terms of noise, dynamic range, perceived loss of resolution, etc.
Anyone modify the I/O circuitry if they perceived improvement could be had?
I'm specifically interested in the DDRC-22A which is not quite cheap enough for me to risk without some answers.
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Grommes Mono Block
Hi all - I am thinking of building myself a pair of clone Grommes 360 mono blocks as I can't buy any here in Australia. I can glean a lot about the design from what I have read on the web, but if anyone has a schematic that would be a great help. Any available info would be good.
Mal Ward.
Mal Ward.
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Amp module for equipments
Hello..
I am designing an vibration machine for industrial, and looking for RMS 600W < digital amp module.
Frequency : 3 ~ 100 Hz .
It generates only sine wave, so the sound quality doesn't matter.
The stability and power is important.
What would you recommend for that usage?
I am designing an vibration machine for industrial, and looking for RMS 600W < digital amp module.
Frequency : 3 ~ 100 Hz .
It generates only sine wave, so the sound quality doesn't matter.
The stability and power is important.
What would you recommend for that usage?
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Squealing Inteference
Hi,
I just installed a sound system in my car. When I turn on the car it starts squealing lightly, and changes sounds when I accelerate and idle.
It's a 4 channel system. I unplug 2 channels and the squealing stops. Doesn't matter what 2 channels, but it stops.
I thought it may be the RCA cables, and have ordered new ones with shielding. But I also think now it might be the ground cable. I can't determine for certain what it is yet. Does anyone have an idea what it could be specifically?
My car is a BMW E46, so the battery is in the back so I'm not running power cable and audio cable next to each other.
I just installed a sound system in my car. When I turn on the car it starts squealing lightly, and changes sounds when I accelerate and idle.
It's a 4 channel system. I unplug 2 channels and the squealing stops. Doesn't matter what 2 channels, but it stops.
I thought it may be the RCA cables, and have ordered new ones with shielding. But I also think now it might be the ground cable. I can't determine for certain what it is yet. Does anyone have an idea what it could be specifically?
My car is a BMW E46, so the battery is in the back so I'm not running power cable and audio cable next to each other.
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potentiometer replacement
Hello guys...need your opinion.
I have 4 channels kicker amp, kx800.4 I think. This amp had a problem in 100K dual gain pot. I tried searching to our local distributor but did not found exact replacement and only 50k and 200k are available.
Which of the two is more suitable, the 50k or 200K instead? any work around?
have a picture attached...
Thank you!
I have 4 channels kicker amp, kx800.4 I think. This amp had a problem in 100K dual gain pot. I tried searching to our local distributor but did not found exact replacement and only 50k and 200k are available.
Which of the two is more suitable, the 50k or 200K instead? any work around?
have a picture attached...
Thank you!
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break-in on tough cases - how to handle?
got a Fane TC-250 - its published spec: fs=50, qts=0.65 - - out of the box this triple-cone (dual whizzers !) ran 67Hz and 0.84. After 12 or so hours of ~ 4 watts sine at 50 plus a mix of lower F's and higher excursions, fs dropped to 62Hz and qts around 0.9. Considering a two inch coil, its getting towards the possibility of a fair thermal rise to get the excursion required to exercise the outer rings of the spider. I would assume it may not meet spec but don't know yet. I've briefly run 15vrms which is around 28 watts nominal to 8 ohm.
how do you guys handle these weird cases? - playing music with the speaker in an enclosure would not work well as the midrange sensitivity is around 98dB.
how do you guys handle these weird cases? - playing music with the speaker in an enclosure would not work well as the midrange sensitivity is around 98dB.
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