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sub cabinet for eminance 15" sub

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I have a pair of 15" 8 ohm eminance subs that were manufactured for a oem customer by Eminance, Im have the following info on the speakers:

05-RE OHMS 6.94 13-FS HZ 44.57
06-LE MH 1.13 14-MMS GMS 49.34
07-QM 5.32 15-CMS mm/N .2584
08-QE .800 16-RMS NS/M 2.5976
09-QT .690 17-VAS LTRS 266.16
10-XMAX MM 2.80 18-SD SCM 856.34
11-BL TM 10.97 19-EBP 56.0
12-EFF % 2.85 20-SPL dB 96.6


can anyone calculate the proper cabinet size for these subs?? Thanks

Now I have a scope and want to test amplifiers... but how?

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I am not finding any reliable information for how to test high voltage amplifiers with an oscilloscope. Is it safe to step the voltage down with my own voltage divider/dummy load?

Keratherm insulating material

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I recently bought .5 square meter of the 86/82 red Keratherm material for some RF and audio amplifier projects. This is more than I need. If there are individuals that need some larger pieces, I am happy to sell pieces cut to size.

Thanks for looking.

David

Attached Images
File Type: jpg Keratherm.jpg (364.0 KB)

The SMPS HYS3C300 - No STBY + -7V identification element

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Hello
HYS3C300 Power supply comes from an active subwoofer (Canton sub 600) and supplies power amplifier in class "D" and the preamplifier. I do not know the history of this failure and I do not know how the injury occurred.
With the power supply goes -7V symmetric + STB and power for the sake of power amplifiers (+ V GND) estimate of it is about 50V
The power supply will not boot no voltage + -7V output. I measured the bridge rectifier is checked 325VA DC fast diodes for the coincidence of the STB are working, t8 transistor (mosfet) to the original approx.
I'm stuck in a place because I have a problem with the identification of the part indicated by IC3 is 6 feet smd is written on it 32D06 if anyone knows what kind of system I would be grateful for information about him, visually no damage. What else should I check? Maybe someone has a diagram of a power supply with a similar topology that would have helped me a lot (If you have an oscilloscope available)
Adding photos PSU
Ps. I apologize for an error that says the translator

obrazki.elektroda.pl/9572795800_1423172062.jpg
obrazki.elektroda.pl/8381377400_1423172072.jpg
obrazki.elektroda.pl/5952004600_1423172066.jpg
obrazki.elektroda.pl/4775159400_1423172070.jpg

Advice on Finishing my K502 Build

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I am in the process of completing my first tube amp build and I want to better understand wiring the IEC plug/on-off switch/power transformer and proper grounding PCB and transformers.

Voltsecond mods have been made and I have read up on the various S5/K502 builds on this site and others. The instructions that came with the kit are somewhat vague.

I would like to add a CL90 to help prolong the life of the tubes.

The top metal plate has been powdercoated and the metal frame of the transformers have been painted. I have placed rubber washers between the transformers and the top. I am using a star washer/nut combination to secure the transformers to the top.

Any suggestions for moving forward safely?

Here are some pictures to better see were I am currently.

Thanks

Attachment 464744

Attachment 464745

Attachment 464746

Attachment 464747

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Ebay Regulated Supply Opinions

Need help understanding Haffler DH220 Design

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Hi,

I'm looking for help in understanding the circuit design for the Haffler DH220.

First, a bit about me. I have a degree in physics and did some electronic labs in college, but I'm not an engineer and that was 20+ years ago. I do some electronics hobbying, mostly fixing broken stuff, but don't have any experience in audio projects, though that seems to be a hobby waiting to happen. I've good analytic and mechanical skills. I work as an IT Architect and restore motorcycles as a hobby. All this is to say that I think I'm up to the task of understanding this, but I could use a little help.

I have a working amp that I want to refurbish as it sounds a bit "dead". Not dead like it doesn't work, but just not very open, vibrant, etc. My thought is that I'll upgrade capacitors and replace components as needed based on testing them.

However, rather than just jump in, I'd like to have a solid understanding of the circuit first. From studying the schematic (posted below with my markup), reading literally hundreds of posts on this and other forums, reading appropriate sections electronics texts (The Art of Electronics, and Sloan's books High Power Audio Amplifier and Audiophile's Project Sourcebook), and reading through Marshall Leach's description of his amp design (very helpful), I have a pretty good high level understanding of the Haffler design. However, there are some sections of the circuit I don't understand.

What follows is my understanding (please correct any errors) as well as my questions.

The design follows Lin's 3 stage architecture. It is a complementary design, so in the following (and in my markup of the schematic), I'm just going to focus on 1/2 of the circuit

The input impedance is set by R1. The input is ac coupled through C1 and C2.
C21 and C22 are to remove any power supply ripple.

The input stage is a differential amplifier formed by Q3 & Q4 with a current source in the tail formed by Q2, D4, D5, D6 and R9.

The input stage is biased by the voltage divider that is adjusted by P1.

Output from the input stage is from the collector of Q3 and feeds the 2nd stage (the VAS). The 2nd stage is a Darlington Pair (Q7 & Q8). Diode D9 seems to work like a Baker Clamp to protect Q7 from saturating. If I understood my reading correctly, a Baker Clamp would have another diode, so I'm not sure if this actually is a Baker Clamp or not.

The output of stage two is from the collector of Q8 and feeds the base on the output driver Q12. Q12 is biased by the amplified diode formed with Q9, P2, and the associated resistors. Q12 is configured as an emitter-follower and the emitter output feeds the parallel MOSFETS that complete the output stage.

The output is run through some filters composed of L1& R36 along with R35 & C19 and R37 & C20 (I believe these two RC segments are part of a Zobel network).

Questions:

How is this 2nd stage biased? Is it through R9 and C4? If not, what is the purpose of R9 and C4?

What is the purpose of R34 and C18? My guess is that R34 is part of the feedback network and C18 provides a mean to bypass R18 for certain frequencies to adjust feedback.

The circuit near point A in the schematic is the feedback network, correct? If someone feels like explaining how that functions, that would be great, though just knowing it is the feedback network is enough for my general understanding.

What is the purpose of C23?

What is the purpose of C11, C12, and C13? More power supply filtering?

One of the output stage input drivers (lower part of diagram) has some capacitors in it's circuit segment (C10 and C17) that the other driver doesn't. What is the purpose of those and why on only one driver?

What are the diodes in the middle of the diagram for (D11, D12, D13, & D14)?

Finally, can someone explain the purpose of the Resistors and Capacitor (R401, R402, and C401) in the output stage? Are those there for biasing? I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around that detail.

Thanks in advance for your input on this. If I get a thorough (and accurate) understanding of the circuit, I'll write it up and repost it.

James
Click the image to open in full size.

Class D help

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Hey everyone I need some help on an amplifier if possible please. It's a standard class d using 20955 driver and two 4229 mosfets. Problem I am getting the amp blew the mosfets at first. I checked through cct replaced gets and 20955. Unit powers back up but with no load mosfet 1 gets hot if signal is applied and blows. Mosfet 2 is ok. I am missing something here. Anyone can assist with troubleshooting. Thanks.

noisy foot switch; is there a fix?

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Hello all, I have been asked to build a simple kill switch for a guitarist friend who wants to be able to silence his guitar downstream of his pedal board so he can silently tune etc... I built a box with 2 jacks connected together (in and out) and a switch that shorts the signal to ground when turned "on". The problem is he complains it makes a click that is audible through his amplifier at the moment he steps on it. No matter if he stomps it hard or gently presses it makes a noise when he turns his guitar "off".

Is this the switch contacts bouncing on connection or what? I do not hear a noticeable click like he does but he swears it is no good the way it is... SO

Is there a better made switch (I used this one: Peavey On/Off Single-Button Replacement Switch) or must he go with an active circuit for a silent kill switch? As a purist guitar type he demands straight through designs (so called true bypass pedal designs only please...) so any design I can think of that would be truly silent would not be true bypass...

Is there another way?

6SN7 Parallel Preamp Anyone?

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I've been experimenting around with different preamp circuits based around the 6SN7 tube. I've built a few, one of which is posted elsewhere on this forum. Then I ran across a circuit that I thought was cool and decided to try it out.

So I built this:

Attachment 464765

It works. It sounds pretty good. But, I'm still learing things here and I have limited testing equipment. I have a few questions to anyone that is interested and could help.

1.) I measure 3.3mA cathode current. Seems low to most comments I've found but, I have found a few people that state they have the best luck running this tube that low. Comments?

2.) I'm having a hard time understanding how to maximize impedance matching between the stages. Am I way off here?

Anything else you see that I should know or address?

Thanks everyone.

Attached Images
File Type: png rtv6.png (70.2 KB)

Elf Audio E1500D help

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I have an Elf E1500D on the bench. It goes straight into protection and stays there. I removed the board and found that one solder joint on the output inductor was missing all of it's solder. I fixed the joint, installed the board back into the heatsink and powered it up. It still stayed in protection. I removed the inductor and tried again. No change.

I have checked for blown outputs. None found. Checked pre drivers(mpsa 42, 56 & 92's), found none were shorted or open. I'm running out knowledge on this one. Anyone have an idea?

Attachment 464766

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File Type: jpg IMAG0141.jpg (547.4 KB)

Rockford T2500-1bdCP Schematic / Service manual?

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Was wondering if anyone had access to a T2500-1bdCP service manual or schematic? Particularly interested in the Constant Power circuitry and learning more about it and exactly how it works. At first I thought it was changning power supply pulse width to raise and lower voltage like a regulated supply, except based on output instead of input voltage. But after scoping the power supply sections on different loads that wasn't the case. From what I figure it really is not "boosting" power at all as they would make it seem. It seems that anything below about 2-3 ohms it is actually LIMITING output by changing the class-D pulse width in the output section. Am I on the right track?

It must do this by monitoring the impedence /current flow through the speaker connections to the load. Assuming through some sort of current sense resistor system of some sort.

Anyone have any actual schematics or circuit layout, block diagrams, etc for this system so I can learn more?

Marantz sr5002 only takes input in 1 channel

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OK atleast for me, this is a first.
Its got all channels of output. But it only has 1 working input channel. Only the white RCA is working, the red RCA isn't taking input in tape or CD or anything.

Almost like I should go looking for a missing jumper - except, its not got any. It has 5.1 preouts and 5.1 in's. But not pre out main in jumpers.

Anyone had somehting like this happen ?

Thanks.
Srinath.

How much foam lining for this speaker?

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Hi,
I've almost finished a 2-way bass-reflex "boom box". My version has an active crossover, 2 x50W chip amps, Vifa P21WO-39-08 woofer and Vifa XT25TG tweeter.

The original passive enclosure design from 1986 calls for the top, bottom and sides to be lined with 50mm (2 inch) thick medium density "mattress foam". That seems like a lot of volume taken up by foam.

The pics below show the box internal before the top was installed. The stiffeners on the side walls are 50mm, so the suggested foam would be flush with these. The other pic is of some foam I have lying around. It was used as packing for an air rifle, so I doubt it is "acoustic" foam. It is open cell, light weight and would be an 'average' thickness of around 50mm. I have enough of this foam to line the sides.

What do you guys think of the suitability of the foam I have?
Any general comments on lining speaker boxes?

I have no idea why the picture of the painted box is sideways. The original pic isn't and when I go to Manage Attachments the pic is orientated correctly. :confused:

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carlos Jfet pre voltage questions


electrocube vs mundorf

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Hey guys I know that there has been many comparo's of various capacitors but i would like to hear from someone who has used the 935 series electrocube film caps and compared them to the mundorf's?!...

IMO no other film cap compares to the old 935 or 950 series electrocube caps..

I dont have lots of money to burn to try and buy all these different caps to play with so its really not an option so i need your help

Please give me your thoughts with actual comparisons

Thanks

Lawrence

Hi from Ireland

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Hi all,

I'm a recovered studio engineer, and I still play a lot of music. I'm really interested in all things audio technology, particularly guitar pedals and amps.

Seems like a great forum here!

Paul

APPJ PA0901A Repair

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Unfortunately a shorted valve has sent an SMD component up in smoke in my APPJ PA0901A.

Currently the amplifier is
  • Distorting on one channel driving speakers, however it drives small loads fine.
  • Oscillating on one channel, which sounds like a beating heart, but only when the amplifier is turned off and back on after the valves have warmed up.
  • When turned off the left channel fades away in a few seconds as normal and the right stays at mostly the same volume and plays with less distortion for several seconds.

I've attached a picture of the blown SMD component, the opposite component
has '431' printed on the top of it, Is is safe to assume this is an LM431? Also from what I've described above does it sound like the shorted valve has taken anything else out, should I be replacing other components as a matter of course when repairing it?

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File Type: jpg 2015-02-10 19.42.18.jpg (537.1 KB)
File Type: jpg 2015-02-10 19.42.48.jpg (316.6 KB)

Assemblage DAC 2.6 DF1704 Upgrade

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Hi all. I'm a new member and this is my first ever forum request!

Anyway, I have owned an Assemblage DAC 2.6 for 15 years and finally want to upgrade it (very late I know). I can source the op amp upgrades easy enough and I have a blank daughter board for the DF1704 upgrade.

My problem is that I don't know what goes on to the DF1704 daughter board apart from the DF1704 itself. Does anyone have detailed photos or parts list or schematic by any chance.

Yours, hopefully!

CD shelf finnished

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